Toning down gloss finish

[Al Hagensen]

Anyone have ideas how to dull the gloss finish on a MK Mando.?I've searched the site and can't seem to find any info.
Throwing it on the fire is NOT an option.
Any help appreciated!

[Chris Biorkman]

Just out of curiosity, why would you want to do something like that?

[bryce]

Could hand polish with a med-course compound thats normally used earlier in the buffing prcedure. If you want it really dull you could use oooo steel wool or a fine scotchbrite. though it might be a ltlle hard to keep the lines out of but would dull it in a hurry. David

[MikeEdgerton]

I'd be more inclined to use a fine rubbing compound and not buff it out but Id' ask the question of why as well? Many people remove the finish off the back of the neck. There are many threads about that that I can dig up. Is that what you're looking to do?

[Paul Hostetter]

I'm of the 0000 steel wool school (but not scotchbrite), followed by a rubout with a simple rubbing compound (not a polish) with a plain chamois cloth. Either that or just play it a bunch for 3-5 years and get the natural patina.

[GRW3]

If you're going 'Monroe' on us get your pen knife out and scrape it off. Carve out the MK for effect too!



http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif

[Al Hagensen]

Thanks for the input,to answer the question why;I'm just looking for a softer finish.I may remove the finish from the back of the neck,I've had a Mando. like that and liked it.
I was just trying to see if there was a way to tone down the High Gloss.
No I'm not going Monroe and taking a pen knife to any part of this Mando.
Thanks again to all who reply!
Al

[cwtwang]

Big Moo,

I know what you are talking about. You want to go from a high gloss finish that might be a bit too thick to a satinized, classier look. I get it http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/wink.gif

Look at those gorgeous Elkhorn mandolins for the finish I am talking about and see if that matches what you are picturing.

I'd look into using micromesh which can be bought at Stew Mac. I like what Paul H. said.

Paul H. : What do YOU think about micromesh as opposed to 0000 steel wool?

I have actually never satinized a mandolin body but I know that you would have to set up the bridge all over again since there might be no way to mark it since you will have to take off the tailpiece, the bridge (pickguard if you have one). You'd also have to work carefully around all curves (including the center back if the mandolin) and edges since those areas can erode quite quickly as opposed to flat areas.

What I have done (five times) is take the finish off of the neck and I highly recommend using at least a few coats of high grade tung oil after the final stage of steel wooling it with 0000 and brushing it clean. Email me at

cwtwang@bellsouth.net

...if you'd like the details for doing the neck. For three of the neck jobs, I reworked the profile to be a smaller/modified shape and I have been very successful at that and I have worthwhile tips.

Twang http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/mandosmiley.gif

[MikeEdgerton]

Check out the top two threads in this (http://www.mandolincafe.net/cgi-bin/ikonboard.cgi?act=Search&CODE=02&SID=48bfda2b3ef56676) search. See if they address your question in any way.

[Darryl Wolfe]

I am with Paul. #I have done this to my KM-1000 that for my taste was a tad too glossy. #I used 0000 wool followed by Micromesh and some finer Meguires. #You do have to make sure the wool cuts all of the gloss on the full surface and it looks better if you establish a direction. #You are not really removing a fraction of the total thickness of the finish. #The mandolin will take on a look that resembles a varnish finish

[cwtwang]

Darrel,

Do you know what exact grit of Micromesh you used--maybe you used graduating grits? Did you use the pads or cloth Micromesh?

I'm thinking that there are a lot of players on the forum who have very high gloss mandolins and are skilled working with their hands could really use this info.

Thanks,

Cheryl

[Paul Hostetter]

0000 steel wool burnishes the finish as well as abrades it a bit, and follows irregularities well. It's important to have a feel for what kind of finish you're doing this to. You could ruin or rub right through a fresh nitro or refined varnish finish quickly, but many of the commercial finishes out there (thinking of an MK) are much harder two-part films that can take the deglossing better and more safely.

Just using Meguiar's and a felt-covered stiff foam pad, I've been able to bridge some dull satin--almost flat--finishes up to that nicer burnished satin look. I think many of us just want a nice French polish or varnish surface look, and it can be had in many instances.

[Jude Reinhardt]

I use 0000 steel wool, but I don't use it dry. I use a lemon oil/beeswax mix as a lube. Gives a nice warm glow to a gloss finish.

Jude

[Meadowview]

Do you think this is too much "toning down"??

[Darryl Wolfe]

Darrel,

Do you know what exact grit of Micromesh you used--maybe you used graduating grits? Did you use the pads or cloth Micromesh?

I'm thinking that there are a lot of players on the forum who have very high gloss mandolins and are skilled working with their hands could really use this info.

Thanks,

Cheryl
Actually I do not remember, but is was at least 5 or 8000. I thought the 0000 wool would be fine by itself, but it needed toning down because it was a tad too scratchy after polishing back up. I think the wool helps level it up though and cuts of the gloss more evenly than you might could do with MMesh alone. Don't know because i did the wool first

[cwtwang]

Do you think this is too much "toning down"??

That's a great example of "Oh, dang! Now I've gone too far!"

But seriously, you in progress taking it down to the wood to create a different stain?

Twang http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/mandosmiley.gif

[Meadowview]

>That's a great example of "Oh, dang! Now I've gone too far!"

>But seriously, you in progress taking it down to the wood to create a different stain?

I didn't like the finish I had, but in the process of removing the finish, I decided I like it like this, everyone who sees it loves it------------it looks like it is a hundred years old. I don't have to worry about fingerprints or scratches and I can keep everyone guessing.

[TomTyrrell]

The finish on the MKs is relatively thick plastic (yes I know that is a simplification but not by much). Even with 0000 steel wool you would have to go crazy to get all the way through the finish down to wood.

[Al Hagensen]

First, thanks to everyone who sent reply's!
Darryl,that's exactly the look I'm trying for,and Paul you are on the same wavelength as well.Can you send me a Pic. of the finished product or direct me to a site where I can see it?
I'm not sure I am talented enough of a woodworker to do this on my own,but willing to try!
Hey Meadowview,YES thats WAY TOO much toning down.
Thanks again for all the help, any more ideas are welcome,keep 'em coming!

[mercenarymandolinist]

Try fine pumice and boiled linseed oil carefully rubbed with a piece of flannel. Be careful around the "spine" of the scroll and the edges of the F holes or you'll burn through the finish..

[cwtwang]

Dear MM,

I'm not very knowledgeable about pumice. What kind of fine pumice? Like organic peaches or something like that?http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif

Seriously, though, this sounds like a good idea and gets rid of the dry way of doing it...

Twang http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/mandosmiley.gif

[mercenarymandolinist]

Should be able to find it at the hardware store. Usually available in coarse, medium, fine, and "flour", which is the finest. If you know a dental technician, ask them. I bet your dentist has some he would give you. Finally, use some good carnuba car wax.

[Paul Hostetter]

...gets rid of the dry way of doing it...

I hasten to remind you that while the 0000 steel wool is dry, the followup is not. Linseed oil is really messy stuff; the other followups are water-based. The big reason for dry steel wool is your much greater ability to get rid of all the dust and remaining iron fibers before doing anything else. You don't want to hand-rub a finish even with a dry polishing cloth if there are still bits of steel wool present.

[Al Hagensen]

Paul, Thanks for the info. 0000 wool followed by the maguires,Right?
I think I'm going to try to see what I can do!
Wish me luck,otherwise I'll have a Mando like Meadowview,still not a bad look!
Thanks to all,
Al

[Paul Hostetter]

Let me reiterate what I wrote you offline:

I don't do circular rubbing with the 0000, and I think Darryl said about the same:


You do have to make sure the wool cuts all of the gloss on the full surface and it looks better if you establish a direction.
More time w/lighter pressure is better than less time and more pressure. Once ALL the gloss has been cut, then you proceed to refine that surface. I follow that with Mequiar's #17

http://www.lutherie.net/meguiars.jpg

But Meguiar's has a new version of that now called PlastX which I think is an improvement, not that #17 was in need of improvement.

http://www.elitecarcare.co.uk/images/Plastx%20big.jpg
I apply either stuff with a clean felt scrap, rubbing in a circular motion for sure, and do a primary cleanup wipe with paper towel followed by hand buff with soft cotton chamois cloth. You could probably use just the PlastX or #17, but it would take a lot longer. Go easy and you won't hit bare wood!

[Al Hagensen]

Thanks again Paul,I've already got the Plastx from a polishing job I was doing,and I'm going to try de-glossing the finish!
Thanks to everyone again for all your input,this is a great site!

It's nice to know people can be so helpful!
Al