Liquid hide glue

[timcat]

I have just discovered Titebond's liquid hide glue, and it seems to be available in a lot of places. A friend of mine uses it and recommended it. A whole lot easier to use than the hot kind and fairly inexpensive. Anyone out there have good or bad experiences with it to share?

[mandoryan]

The general consensus around here and from experience seems to be to stay away from it. I personally use Titebond I glue because I know it works and why fix something that ain't broke. I use the hide glue for labels and that's about all I trust it for. Some people have used it and had good results.....

[Luthier]

Throw it away....

Don http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif

[joshags03]

Definetly get rid of it... Don't use it... Stay away from it... on my first violin the top and back seperated 2 weeks after I had glued and set the top to the rim. Thankfully I was able to fix it but I will never use titebond again..........Well, I use it sometimes when I want to hold something temporarily???

[joshags03]

I read the post and it didn't look right... I use Titebond wood glue, it's the Titebond hide glue that doesn't bond tight...

[samuel]

hmmmm i was given some to try but never actually tried it yet... well now i am kinda leary from trying it.

[jamman]

I used some to glue a nut, and it came loose shortly after.

[Bill James]

I found a use for it by accident.

If you have a small leak in the bottom of a waste basket, just pour in a whole bottle and the next day the leak is fixed. http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif

[Luthier]

That's great, Bill!!!! You had me belly laughing on that one. The stuff is really poor. Hot hide glue, on the other hand, has its merits, but the cold hide glue is just not worth putting it in bottle. Yes, I am passionate about not using it.

Don

[peter.coombe]

Use it for temporary things only. Other than that, chuck it in the bin.

[Dru Lee Parsec]

Master Luthier Bob Benedetto said this about liquid hide glue in his 9 1/2 hour video series on making archtop jazz guitars: "It's unadulterated ####! The worse thing ever. I glued some fretboards on with it and every one of those guitars came back. I could peel the fretboard away from the neck with just my fingers. Absolute garbage!"

[Luthier Vandross]

I like the flavor of rabbit, but possum sticks better, I'd never have an answer for you, I'd never be caught using anything but fresh animal stickum.

Seriously, cook some up, and remember the first rule of hide glue..

'Both sides, Fellas." - eddie hoover

M

[Luthier]

That gives me an idea....plenty of road kill on these back country roads.....I mean, why waste it in a good stew when I could be using it for glue?

Don

[Luthier Vandross]

Sorry... Stew, or glue!? Why have one, when you can have two? http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/laugh.gif

....made me wonder about that movie, the Texas Mandolin Massacre, 'It's all in the glue.."..

http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/rock.gif


M

[Tom C]

Shouldn't all you luthiers be building the next masterpieces instead of on the web?
http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif

[mandough]

So, which is the "best" ready made glue available for instrument building, then? In your opinion.

[labraid]

And what makes Titebond I different than Elmer's carpenter glue? Both are straight PVA, correct?

[pickinpox]

I belive that Tightbond and Elmers Carpenter glue (the yellow stuff) are aliphatic resin. The PVA (polyvinyl acetate) is the plain white Elmers. You are mostly correct, the former two are the same and suitable for lutherie while the latter is best suited for crafts etc.

[mandough]

What's the difference between Titebond I and Titebond II?

[labraid]

Difference between I and II is:
I) regular molecule chains held together by a sort of "friction" which keeps them from moving, they don't usually overcome this force but they can in certain cases, most often because of the accumulated force over time which causes "creep", the molecules slipping past one another slowly enough that over time things actually move/slip. The force is tehnically called hydrogen bonding, a weak intermolecular force which incidentally is the same force that causes water droplets to be round.
II) Titebond II has an added element which creates a strong chemical bond, as opposed to weak H-bonds, between molecular chains so they resist slipping and are also water resistant (not water-tight though).

I'm pretty sure I got all that right, it's been a few years since Uni....

[mandough]

So, for luthiere work, is Titebond II better than Titebond I?

[Luthier]

I cast my vote for 1.

Don

[Luthier Vandross]

I join backs, and tops with TBII, and everything else is bugs bunny.

M

[Michael Lewis]

For general instrument work use Titebond 1 if you aren't going to cook up some hide glue. #There have been some joint failures with the Titebond 2, but they may have been related to shelf life. #There is a date code printed on each bottle of glue, but I don't remember how to decipher it, go to the Titebond web site. #I used to use Borden's or Elmer's but Titebond holds better. #Now I use mostly hot hide glue for general assembly and repair work. #By the way, it is easier to seperate joints glued with Titebond than hide glue, all you have to do is apply heat and run your knife in the joint. #Heat alone will not soften hide glue.

[sunburst]

My experience with Titebond II was a Christmass gift maple butcher block cutting board.
It started to come apart in use.
The next Christmas the II had past it's expiration date, so I used regular titebond. It held fine

[Luthier Vandross]

In 70-80 year old instruments, hide glue is holding up, in better than 80% of the dovetails, except for Wayne Fanning's.

http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif

M