Removing the finish on the back of the neck

[sandcastlefaith]

I've seen a lot of guys lately that have removed the finish from the back of their necks. They tell me that it gets rid of friction, and makes it easier to slide and change positions on the neck. But, my question is, is it worth it? How much difference does it really make in playability, and does that account for the loss in resale value and cosmetic appeal? I don't really care that much about looks. I have an F-9, and if taking some steel wool to the varnish on the back of the neck would make a big difference, I'm willing to do it, but I also don't want to screw up the resale value of the mandolin if it doesn't make that big of a difference.

[Tom C]

Ah come on. This is the 4th time somebody asked this. Search for the answer.

[stout1]

I think that Nathaniel is asking some questions that are a little bit different than the standard "how to" and "why do it" questions. #
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I don't know the answers, but my guess would be that given the prevalence of instruments with the finish removed, it will not affect value. #I would also venture to say that if someone wanted to buy an instrument but didn't like the fact that the finish was removed, it could always be refinished to their liking. #
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All that being said, I think that it is simply a matter of personal taste, and much like armrests, tailpieces, different strings and Rigel vs. Breedlove vs. Gibson vs. Weber, it is tough to make a decision unti you try it for yourself. #I removed the finish from my junky Johnson, and love it. #Of course I wasn't real worried about resale value.
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#Sorry about the length, Nate

[mandofiddle]

It's definitely worth it in my opinion. I struggled for a few years with "sticky neck syndrom" and tried a few different non-permanent remedies, but nothing worked. And it was always something I thought about before gigs... "Oh no, I'm playing a gig in the summer outside, I hope my hand doesn't stick too much to the neck". Ever since I've taken the finish off though, I haven't had a problem or even thought about it. It's the best improvement I've made to my mandolin. I have a mandolin being built right now that I'm having the builder do the nekkid neck on. I wouldn't have it any other way. However, I'm not concerned about resell value or the cosmetics of it. If you are, that's definitely something to consider.

[JD Cowles]

i just made the plunge with mine last night. what a difference. tom is right tho, there are a few threads going with lots of info on this subject just search for "removing finish"
jd
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[frets1]

I romoved the neck finish on my Gibson Sam Bush. I love it!! Much-much-much-much better. Do it. But dont just use some steel wool. Take the finish all the way to the wood. Get it good and smooth with some 1500 sand paper then treat the wood with toung oil. Let it dry for 12 hrs then sand it smooth. again with the 1500. You will love it. http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/mandosmiley.gif

[mandofiddle]

I ended up going all the way to 2000 grit sandpaper, which can be found in an auto parts store. SO smooth. I LOVE it.

[sandcastlefaith]

Tom C, sorry for offending you . . . http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/rock.gif I just wanted to ask a question and didn't think it would hurt anyone's feelings if it had been asked before. Besides, I don't happen to be one of the board's hardy veterans that have been around for ever, and didn't feel like searching the past history to see if there was another topic of similar content.

Everyone else, thanks for the advice . . . I think I might go for it and just take of the finish, since I probably won't be selling this one anytime real soon, and I don't feel like suffering until then to keep it "mint."

[mandroid]

2000 grit. that would be wet or dry type? With paint [&lacquer] it would clog up instantly dry, would it not? did you run thru a couple coarser types first?
NB, 00000 steelwool, I'm to understand, is a ,way, different thing than more commmon 000.
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[duuuude]

You won't be dissapointed! I worried about doing it to my brand new F-9, but as soon as I felt that neck sliding like butter in my hand I knew it was the right decision. Plus I'm not too hung up on appearance, playablility means much more in the long run.
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[mandofiddle]

Hey Mandroid. It is meant to be wet paper, but I used it dry. I started with 600 and worked my way to 2000. Once I had it all good with 2000 I went a step further and used a leather strap to polish it up a bit more before applying the Tung Oil.