Need help with an '28 gibson bridge

[Drewcifer]

Hi,

I'm looking for advice on a replacement bridge for my 1928 Gibson A-style oval hole mandolin. #The orignial bridge has the two screw post which extend at least 1/4" above the bridge surface, making it nearly impossible to play with catching your hand on those steel posts. #I would like to find a different bridge (so I can play this instrument) and set the original one aside. #I do not want to modify the original bridge since I suspect that would change the value. #It's a great sounding mandolin but unplaybale at this point. #Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. #Thanks!

Andrew

[Michael Lewis]

There are several "Loar" replica bridges available from Daniel Smith, Steve Smith (Cumberland Acoustic), Randy Woods, etc. Another bridge that is often a compliment to the oval hole mandolins is the Brekke bridge from Weber.

[Drewcifer]

Thank you for your help. I will look into both of those options.
Andrew

[JEStanek]

Michael,
Could you please comment on how you feel the Brekke bridge is a good compliment for an oval hole instrument and what it's advantages are over the Loar style with thumbwheels. Thanks.

Jamie

[Michael Lewis]

A teens Gibson A model came into my shop for "help". The original one piece bridge had been modified and was pretty worn out, so I put on a brekke. It was much the same in size and cursory appearance as the original bridge, adjustable, and it sounded much better. Bear in mind that each instrument is a different equation and what works well for one may not work so well for another. I realize this is not exactly the same as replacing a Loar style bridge but you can find out what works for your instrument by trying the different styles of bridges.

[Gail Hester]

For some reason, a lot of Gibson mandolins in the 27-29 range have large bridge post screws sticking up too high. In additions to Michael’s good advice on replacement Loar style bridges or trying a one-piece style bridge, those posts can be screwed down into the bridge base where they belong. Sometimes this requires drilling the hole deeper and re-tapping the hole for the screw post. This is something that I have to do occasionally on the old ones like the one pictured.

[Drewcifer]

Gail, thank you for that great information. That's good to know that the problem can be solved using the original bridge. Do you suspect there is any danger of those screws getting too far down--too close to the top for instance? And, in case I can't find anyone here to do it (Salt Lake City), where are you and could you do this for me, being that you've seen and dealt with it before? Thanks in advance,

Andrew

[Gail Hester]

"Do you suspect there is any danger of those screws getting too far down--too close to the top for instance?"

Yes, that's always a concern and something to pay close attention to and may require shortening the screw.

Give me a call if you like or send me a PM.
360-697-4181

[Darryl Wolfe]

If there is nothing wrong with the bridge other than the posts, then I would certainly retain it and fix the problem. The original bridges have 5-40 threaded rods and wheels. These are NOT readily available at a hardware store. Usually the hole in the base of the bridge is all the way thru or almost thru. The posts can work their way up too tall. At any rate they can be screwed all the way in and then trimmed at the height required to solve the problem

[Drewcifer]

Thanks to all:

I'm taking this mandolin in to Intermountain Guitar and Banjo here in Salt Lake--they said they'd be willing to look at the posts and see if we can lower them or possibly shorten them. I'll write again when it's done. Thanks again to everyone,

Andrew