Nut slot size?

[JimF9]

I'm going to try to build a new nut for my Gibson F9. What size files should I use for each slot? I use .040 G strings, .026 D strings, .015 A strings and .011 E strings.

Jim

[Bruce Evans]

Go to the StewMac site:
http://www.stewmac.com/

They have a range of files for nut slots. I would chose a file for each slot which is at least 10 thousandths bigger than the biggest string you will ever want to put in that slot.

Is that a sufficiently vauge answer? http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif

[Bandersnatch Reverb]

FWIW, I just sent back one of StewMac's .012/.016 dual gauge files. Made really poorly, as both edges did a sharp point, instead of a radius. The larger dual gauged files seem ok.

Yeah larger slot is the way to go, as long as the bottom is radiused. That V shape from the StewMac file made the strings grab in the slot, not good.

Read up on frets.com on setting nut action - Frank has a neat trick for using the 2nd fret as a gauge and it works!

[sunburst]

I would chose a file for each slot which is at least 10 thousandths bigger than the biggest string you will ever want to put in that slot.

Do you really use a .021 file for a .011 string? That seems a little big to me.

I'd use .013 .016 .026 .045 for those strings. Why? Because those are the sizes that I have that are close.

You can roll a nut file as you file the slot if it's a little to small and you'll get a bigger slot than the size of the file.

[Ed Ashley]

all I can say for sure is, don't use a .010 file for the slot for a .010 string, go a bit bigger. Ask me how I know....nah...don't...

[JimF9]

Thanks everyone for the input. I'm going to try .016, .020, .032 and .046.


Jim

[Ed Ashley]

Whoa Hoss! Slow down there Jim, I think you are overdoing, that could be as bad as too tight, with buzzing etc. You said your strings were .040, 026, .015 and .o11. I would go with files of .042, .028, .016, and .013 (since I didn't see an .012).
Ed

[KenR]

If the StewMac double side files are not sufficiently rounded in the A and E string sizes what make would you recommend and what's the contact info. I'm considering widening a nut slot for the J75 .016 A string and would welcome any suggestions. Thanks. - Ken

[Bandersnatch Reverb]

The StewMac file I got (and have since returned) was a sharp edge on both sides... like I said above.

I just ordered the .013 and .020 single size files instead, no biggie. They dont cut sloped edge slots (ie, cut straight down). But, you can always go back with a larger file and just kiss the top of the slot if you like it to look that way (a slight bit of chamfer).

I really dont see anthing wrong with using a .020 file for a slot thats gonna take a .013 string. If the sizes are correct, thats only .0035 slop on each side of the string... not much at all.

Just for good measure (no pun) I just measured one of the hairs off the top of my head (yes, there's still hair there, amazingly!). My dial calipers are at work, but the diamond-master Mitutoyo verniers say .003 right on. I seem to remember .0025 to .003 being about the average white persons hair diameter, so that amount of "slop" on each side of the sting is REALLY no big thang!

[Michael Lewis]

I'm with Sunburst on this, just a little clearance is all you need. A slot .001" or .002" larger than the string will be free of binding, and too much clearance can cause buzzing. Attention to details like this is what makes a great set up, and this is what I get paid for.

[Luthier]

I am going out on a limb here and I know many will not agree with me on this one. #I use either a diamond shape or triangular shaped jewlers file for my string slots on the nut on wound strings, and a fine saw blade for the unwound strings.
It has always made sense to me that by having the string resting in a "V" channel, it is physically impossible to have any slop or play in it which would cause the buzzing associated with too large a notch. I have never had a problem as far as the string binding in the slot either. The string is resting on two points of the "V" so it stops any string movement past the nut and holds it in place. #I angle the "V" toward the plane of the peghead as well. The wound strings will not bind because of their physical structure. Again, just my opinion. There are soooo many tools out there for this and that and the other thing andI just don't think they are all needed.

Don

[Michael Lewis]

I used to use, and still sometimes do, a triangular file for nut slots. The 60 degree angle of the triangular file seems to work pretty well, but the narrower the angle the more possible the string will bind in the slot. Mostly I now use the gauged files as sold by Luthier's Mercantile and Stew/Mac.

[Luthier Vandross]

Don, I do bone with an old Ibanez type set, but I do MOP, and ivory with saw blades, and jewlers files.

The V thing.. hmm dunno..

I start the groove at a slightly shallower angle than the ultimate pitch (degrees.. hello!) of the string path, and my last cutting stroke rounds downward, toward the tuning machine hole.

You get a round, very slightly oversized slot, that follows the string path, but falls off exactly at the fretting side of the nut... no buzz, very low wear from large contact area.

I hate cutting nuts for Martin style guitars, and mandolins. It's hard to do a great job, and setup guys are worth their weight in hamburgers.

That *was* a job offer, apply within.. anyone? Hello?

http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif

Miles

[Luthier]

I guess old habits die hard (and I'm too cheap to buy those graduated files). #When I worked for LoPrinzi Guitars in the late 70's, this is the way I was shown to perform the operation. #We only turned out 3 guitars/day. They were very high quality but you can have the best product in the world but if you can't sell them......they ended up going under but I did learn a great deal in the time I was there. #

Don