10 string mandolin intonation

[shiloh]

Hi everyone,
I'm buying/trialing a 10 string mandolin which should be arriving this week. I don't know the exact scale length (she told me, now I don't remember!) but it is a mandolin scale. #The seller mentioned the C course intonation isn't quite right. Has anyone experienced this? I believe the bridge is usually set-up at an angle (longer) for the C course? I'm also assuming I should use the largest gauge string recommended by the builder (which would be a 44w). Any thoughts or suggestions would be helpful. I'm hoping this mandolin will be loads of fun, and would hate to have an improper set-up squelch the deal.
Thanks,
Jill

[PseudoCelt]

I'm also assuming I should use the largest gauge string recommended by the builder (which would be a 44w).
Maybe it's a typo, but if you really are using 44s for the C course on a mandolin-ish scale, I would think that might be part of the problem. I'm using 52s for the C strings of my 16.5" mandola and even that feels a bit too slack to me.

Patrick

[aroberts8089]

It might be that the bridge saddle for the C course is not located correctly. Since most mando bridges have fixed saddles, you would actually have to have a new bridge made with the C saddles in the proper position so that the intonation is correct. Often times bridges are made too thin to actually compensate for the difference in length needed for correct intonation for 5 course instruments - even with a slight angle.

[Geoff B]

It seems a common problem with 5 course mando-creations that you get a floppy C string which is hard to intonate, or a weak E string, which is hard to intonate, and fixing one makes the other worse. The fanned fret system usually takes care of this pretty well (there was a thread in the last few months about that), but without it, I think that problem is pretty unavoidable. Seems like most folks get it as good as they can but still have those issues. Let us know what happens!

[steve V. johnson]

There are a lot of things that can mess with intonation... the bridge/saddle could be without compensation or the nut slots could be too small for the big ol' 44 on the bottom.

Most of these are pretty easily fixable with some movement or trimming of material. At most a new bridge &/or nut would most likely take care of it.

If it's structural, say ... a curved or twisted neck or a sinking top, you'll know it right away! Sorry, those are scary
words, but the most usual case is that intonation can be set with the small parts.

stv

[shiloh]

Hi
Interesting about the 52's pseudocelt. The instrument is expected to arrive this week. I'll see where I can track down some heavier strings to try on the C course. I don't know what is on it right now.
Jill

[dunbarhamlin]

I've settled on 52s for my mando scale 10 strings (flat topped cylinderbacks) - but I like low tension. This low, tuning can be fiddly, and intonation is problematic - I find the gauge spread (and the necessary relief for the C) on a 10 string makes the step between plain and wound strings less manageable with a simple twist of the bridge.

I think 56 would be more normal. Just use something nice and flexible (I use Newtones)

Cheers
Steve

[trevor]

If it mandolin scale length I would go for at least .056 for the C.