weather-neck changes

[ira]

posted in gen'l mando, but probably belongs here.

could a change in temp/humidity create differences in my mando and cause string breakage more often when playing. could an adjustment of the truss rod be of use to help with this. been breaking strings more often, i don't believe it is a burr as it is not just one specific string. the a and d courses are the primary culprits.

truss rod adjustment? would that be a turn to the left or right>? (willing to learn, but not much in the way of even minor do it yourself stuff- though this issue has gotten me pretty good at string changing).
thanks,
ira

[Rroyd]

Humidity changes can affect the straightness of a neck. #If the fingerboard absorbs moisture, it can swell and cause a reverse bow, or it can dry out and shrink and cause loose frets or protruding fret ends. #You will end up with strings buzzing and rattling, but not breaking, so something else is happening to cause the string breakage.

The truss rod, to describe it very simply, is designed to adjust the straightness of the neck, and really will have nothing to do with string breakage. # Indiscrimate adjusting can create a whole new set of problems, and some can be very serious. #(Like damaging the truss rod, which would require replacing it.) # Trying to adjust the neck using the truss rod alone is an invitation to just that sort of problem; the neck should be straightened with some type of clamping arrangement and then the truss rod nut is tightened
(or, less frequently, loosened) to maintain the corrected neck shape, avoiding the possibility of damaging the truss rod #threads by having to exert the type of pressure required if just using the truss rod alone. #If your neck has bowed and you want to try to straighten it yourself, you can place a block crossways on each end of the fingerboard, place something about the size of a 2"x3"x12" board
lengthways over the fingerboard, resting each end on the crossways blocks. #Then place a padded block on the back side of the neck and use a C clamp to straighten the neck, with the C clamp on the lengthways board and the padded block. #Then tighten the truss rod nut. #Remove the C clamp and check your work by sighting down the side of the fingerboard, as you may need to put a very slight reverse bow in the neck with your clamping jig so that when the truss rod is tightened and the clamp removed it will be appropriately straight. #(see other posting discussions on fingerboard relief) #You can do this with the strings on and tightened up to pitch, but use fairly thick padding (I use leather, about 10-12 oz) under the crossways blocks to avoid fret and string damage.

[Michael Lewis]

String breakage is usually due to agressive picking. Move your pick away from the bridge and it should help.

[ira]

thanks michael,
i am definitely agressive, especially toward the end of a gig when we are doin some more rockin stuff. if i move from the bridge (i do tend to pick in that area) closer to the fretboard, will that help?

could it also be swelling of the bone in the nut?

thanks so much

[Rroyd]

The bone won't absorb moisture, but if you are using heavier gauge strings than what it originally had, they might be binding if the notches were cut to fit a lighter gauge string. If they fit but very tightly, scribble in the notches with a pencil, as the graphite in the lead acts as a lubricant. If they only go partway down in the notches you need to have the nut redone to fit your present strings.