removing bridge

[billkilpatrick]

i have to remove the bridge on an ebay-bought charango because some@#!*one simply stuck it back on and filled in most of the holes in the process.

i believe the technique is to heat the area with a hairdryer in order to soften the glue and gently insert a putty knife or some such tool to eventually pry it off. #is this correct?

having done that, would you please advise me what sort of glue to use when the replacement bridge arrives from bolivia.

many thanks - bill

[Big Joe]

You must be careful with the hair dryer. You could melt the finish before the glue lets go. I prefer to take an iron, like for pressing pants, and let it heat up. Put a damp wash cloth over the bridge and then hold the iron on it for a short time. The glue will loosen and you can then take your spatula and lift the bridge. Be careful because you can tear the wood beneath if you are not careful. Depending upon what kind of glue the last person used it should lift easily. However, if he used superglue or epoxy you will not likely get it loose.

[Mando Medic]

Billi...The glue typically used in most repair shops is Franklin Tightbond or fresh hot hide glue. Not the liquid hide glue you buy in a bottle. Tightbond is my first choice. To get the old bridge loose is to make a mask of 1/4" cardboard, the very dense varity, like poster board stock stacked up with aluminim on the top. I make sure the top 10" around the bridge are masked completely leaving a footprint open of only the bridge outline. I have a 65 watt indoor flood light that I suspend to within 8 to 12 inches of the bridge and leave it for 5 to 7 minutes. I use a 2 inch putty knife to carefully lift the bridge off from the back towards the front. This should soften the glue just enough to get a spatula or putty knife under the back edge. It may take 4 or 5 repeats of the process to get the job done. Be careful to protect the rest of the top, finish and braces from too much heat. That's how I do it and I would suggest that you take it to a repairperson instead of doing it yourself. Do you have the correct clamps to clamp it down during re-gluing? Good luck. Kenc

[billkilpatrick]

thank you both for your help. i'll let you know how i get on when the replacement bridge arrives.

sincerely - bill

[Dave Wendler]

To get the old bridge loose is to make a mask of 1/4" cardboard, the very dense varity, like poster board stock stacked up with aluminim on the top. I make sure the top 10" around the bridge are masked completely leaving a footprint open of only the bridge outline. I have a 65 watt indoor flood light that I suspend to within 8 to 12 inches of the bridge and leave it for 5 to 7 minutes

This is pretty close to what I do...

I'll quadruple fold some aluminum foil and make a cutout just the size of the bridge. I use a 100 watt bulb at about 1"...the layered foil will dissipate the excess heat...I've done about 150 bridges this way and have never damaged finish.

If you're getting a new bridge though, it might just be best to rout the old one off; you'll generally get a cleaner job this way. Check out www.frets.com for the procedure. Or Paul Hostetter's site.