Filling grain in walnut.

[Chris Baird]

I'm just about ready to finish a walnut mandolin and have tried the "mud" but don't like that look. Anyone have any other methods they like? I was thinking about using epoxy.

[Michael Lewis]

Chris, I have used lots of walnut, filled some and left some unfilled. If you want to fillthe grain you can use pumice and alcohol with a rag. The pumice grinds tiny bits of wood from the surface and the rag packs it into the pores. Otherwise, if you are using lacquer you can just spray and sand back to wood, repete as necessary until level, then spray final 2 or 3 coats. I wouldn't recommend just spraying and apraying until it is level, as that will build way too much finish. If you are using varnish you should use the pumice and alcohol.

[Luthier]

This is what I have done and have had great results. #I use paste wood filler. NOT WOOD PUTTY! A brown color will give fine results but a neutral color can also be tinted to the color you want by using Japan colors from an art store. I make a very diluted wash coat of shellac flakes dissolved in alcohol. I use a rag and go over the entire instrument. (The fingerboard being taped off of course). This dries almost right after it is wiped on. #This coats the surface and the inside of the wood's pores. #It also helps when you remove the filler that is not in the pores. #I brush on the filler in the direction of the grain of the wood I want filled. #It is ok to get it on a spruce top because it will be sanded later and the filler will only remain in the pores. Binding can be sanded later as well. Let it dry to a dull haze. #(About 10 minutes) I then take a piece of burlap and with some elbow grease, rub firmly across the grain to remove the filler on the surface and push the filler into the pores. #I then sand with 220 silicon carbide paper. #This will leave a nice flat surface on which to begin the topcoats. If you hold the wood up to a light it will reveal any spots you may have missed.#If the wood is not filled in some way shape or fashion, you will just be wasting time and material by spraying and sanding and you will end up filling pores eventually with the top coats instead. I let the instrument sit for a week before I begin to spray the sealer coat or apply whatever finish will be used . #This insures the filler has dried thoroughly.
The directions on the can will also explain what to do.

Don
(be sure not to get elbow grease on the instrument. It is a real bear trying to get that stuff off)

[mandomaniac]

Chris, I am partial to Michael's second method. Although I don't use lacquer. I use hand rubbed Permalyn...first Permalyn sealer, then Permalyn finish) Multiple thin coats, each sanded down until pores are filled. Then build a few thin coats from there to desired 'depth'. Permalyn requires about 6 hr between coats...so morning and evening ritual unless you are a maniac like me ....then 6A, 6P and 12MN !!)
Doesn't take that long really to fill. The pores take on natural iridescent-like quality. Finish is thin like French polish, but durable. Can be worked up through Micromesh grades and then polished to lovely sheen. I first used this on gunstocks....did super job. Also easy to touch up. Tom