Bridges

[mandolinplayingpreacher]

Hello Pickers

I know that this subject has probably been discussed before, but I would like your thoughts about the difference between ebony and maple bridges, is there any real difference, if so which is the best.

[Stephen Perry]

Mass.

Might be better, might not be. Don't think there's a uniform answer for every mandolin.

Make a maple bridge. See if you like it better. Fast job, softer wood.

[sunburst]

Different density, different hardness, different damping, different sound(?).
Yep, try it and see what you like.

[Ken]

"Best" varies from mandolin to mandolin and person to person. Experimentation is the only way to go. In addition to type of wood, you can also try two footed vs one foot, adjustable vs solid, type of saddle material i.e. bone, wood, aluminum, drilling out holes to reduce mass or change the path vibrations from string to top, and probably six more things I can't think of right now.

[steve in tampa]

Check out Red Henry's maple bridges. Had one on a F9 and it worked well. Brought out some different tones in the midrange.

Have a Brekke maple bridge w/ a IF insert on a Weber w/ a cedar top. Has been a good combination.

[56 Gibson Hoss]

I have a related question:
Most mandolin saddles I have seen are flat at the top. Does it make any sense to file them more to a rounded point where the string rests? I am thinking of doing this to increase sustaining notes and change the tone. Any comments or ideas?

[Dan Voight]

I have a related question:
Most mandolin saddles I have seen are flat at the top. Does it make any sense to file them more to a rounded point where the string rests? I am thinking of doing this to increase sustaining notes and change the tone. Any comments or ideas?
I ramp up the back of my strings slots on the bridge to help the string slide up and over. You can also romove material within the slot to dial in the intonation. If you remove too much material one of two things will happen:

1)the string will not seat properly and buzz.
2)(and more likely) the strings down force will just squash down the hump you've made.

I don't think making a hump will help your tone unless the strings are seated too deep and are obviously being dampened.

[BlueMountain]

A Red Henry style hard maple bridge, properly made and fitted, can add an amazing amount of sustain, brilliance, and volume to a mandolin. I've put one on an old Gibson mandola and seen it rise up and dance. It's certainly worth a try if you aren't happy with what you are getting from your mandolin. On the other hand, lots of hand-made mandolins of high quality really don't need that sort of help. They can become unbalanced, too bright. I've made perhaps a dozen of these bridges, but at present I don't have one on any of may mandolins. I currently prefer the warmth of a well-made ebony tailpiece on a fine mandolin.