Source for Instrument Case Foam and Hardware?

[Jim Webster]

I recall a discussion about sources of hardware, handles, etc. for instrument cases -- and a link to a supplier's website. I can't find that site again and can't recall the name. I've used the "Search" feature on this forum with no luck.

So the question is -- where can I find instrument-safe foam that I can cut to fit an odd-shaped instument? I've just completed a lap-steel guitar and I'll need to build a case to fit. I know I can order a custom case or gig-bag, but I'd rather build my own at this point because I plan to build a few more of these--possibly with different body shapes, and then I plan to build a few electric mandos- also probably with varying body shapes.

[Rroyd]

You might consider styrofoam insulation, which comes in 2 ft x 4ft sheets one and two inches thick.
Then if you want softer padding, just use some sort of foam padding, like a closed cell sleeping bag pad, glued to the styrofoam and then covered with fabric. I've made several cases for electric instruments that way, although I found that the styrofoam and a plush fabric provided enough cushion for my needs except in the back and top of the case, where I glued in the softer padding.

[Rob Anderson]

Hi Jim,
I've tried a number of different things and am very happy with the pink insulation at Home Depot. You can cut and shape it easily. The cheaper white stuff doesn't work well. The other option is the foam they use for flower arrangements found at craft stores, it works but is much more expensive than the pink insulation and will permanently crush. The Home Depot stuff comes in a number of thicknesses as well.
Ohio Travel Bag is a good source of hardware, but there is an $80 minimum first order.
If you find the case projects are more than you want to deal with, I'd be happpy to make them for you.
Thanks,
Rob Anderson-Dunamis Designs 920-989-1396

[mandroid]

If you make a mockup of the space you want for the instrument, and an outline for the case, consider component chemicals for foam in place styreo;; pouring into mould [Boat building stuff],just leave escape space in case you overestimate the amount of syrup you make up.

[Rob Anderson]

Mandroid,
What is the stuff called that you are referring to and have you worked with it before?
Thanks,Rob

[thistle3585]

Rob,
I use the foam that mandroid is talking about to package my products when shipping. What I use is an open cell foam, but it will take on moisture as opposed to a closed cell foam. Basically, the closed cell foam is what you buy at a hardware store to spray around windows etc to insulate them. The upside, I can package eggs in a box with this stuff and dropkick them without breaking them. Even UPS and FEDEX can't seem to damage my packages. The downsides, it is very messy, if you get some on the mando it will take thie finish off, since it is a chemical reaction it can create an extreme heat that will damage the instrument. Also, I have a machine that mixes it. If the mix isn't just right then the failures may consist of the foam shrinking after curing, the foam becoming to brittle or too soft. 2 years ago, a friend of mine bought some to pour into 25 gallon drums to put under his docks. He manually mixed them and had trouble as it started to expand before he got it thoroughly mixed. Sorry if I'm being Mr. Negative. I don't mean to be, but I'd hate to see you destroy an instrument trying to make it work.
By the way, if you do decide to get some. I have a special film that you wrap the product in to protect it from the foam. I'd be happy to send you some. Also, they do sell bags with the chemicals laready in it in seperate chambers then you bust the chambers and mix it kind of like a heat pack. You might check those out.

Here is a link to the company I use.sealed air (http://www.sealedair.com/products/protective/instapak/quick/quick.html)

[Jim Webster]

Thanks for the good ideas. I hadn't thought of the pink insulation sheets, but I know exactly what you mean. I'll probably go that route and maybe cover it with a glued on fabric.

The moulded foam sounds like it would assure a perfect fit, but the chemical reaction worries me. It would have to be covered with something that was sure to prevent any chemical reaction with the finish. I have a 1976 Guild D40 guitar that I bought used. It obviously sat in a guitar stand for a long time, and whatever lined the neck brace on the stand reacted with the nitrocelulose finish leaving a scar on the back of the neck. I used Stew-Mac's water-based varnish on this lap steel, which probably isn't as volatile as nitro, but I'd sure hate to take the axe out of its case some day and see the finish ruined.

[8ch(pl)]

You need to know that polyurethane foam products that are mixedin place, ie boat building floatation foam produce Di-isocyanates. This is a highly toxic chemical that is cumultive in the body and carcinogenic. Body shops which use polyurethane paint products are required in many jurisdictions to use air suppled respirators. Check the instructions before buying. if it says that the product produces isocyanates I would not recommend using it. Even many of the aerosol foams produce isocyanates.

[Jim Garber]

Do any of these foams affect the finish on instruments if left in the case over a period of time. I guess i would consider the Home Depot pink. Has anyone had any adverse reactions, say, leaving the instrument in the case for a year?

Jim

[mandroid]

Mock up of the cavity which would be like the shape ,a positiveform, #but not the real thing.
Boat flotation stuff would be a job for an adaquately ventilated area. outside #ideal.
The chemistry is performed locally , or in mass production and trucked to your town, foaming catalytic reaction is the same for either .

interior plush layer, [plastic vapor barrier] and thin 1/2" mattress type foam ,_perhaps just in instrument cradle/contact spots; with styrene foam,for most of the void space, and a shell of 5mm birch pywood. seems a decent #combination.

I got a DIY case with my mandola,using #sheet 2"thick EPS and 1/8" ply wih spots of soft padding and a plush lining, with a zippered canvas shell and some [grommets and little screws], to attach the cover to the wood strip either side of the zipper.
A stiffened lite zippered cloth case and cover in one.
http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/mandosmiley.gif

[8ch(pl)]

Well ventilated area for 2 part pour in place polyurethane foams,--Yes. Normally these products produce the most Isocyanates while they are being mixed. A cartridge type respirator will not prevent Isocyanates from being inhaled into the body. Toxic amounts are inhaled before they are detectd by smell. If I were using them, I wuld pick a day with a good breeze and stand upwind of the process, holding my breath while I mixed the product, stepping away from it while taking a breath.

The isocyanates also attack the conjuntiva, the wet tissue of the eyes, so a set of goggles is also a must.

personally, I would not recommend using pour in place polyurethane foams, or the aerosol can stuff.

[Dolamon]

The pink Insulating foam is pretty good stuff for building the basic form. What I did which was a bit different from the other suggestions (all interesting, some toxic) was to finish the lining of the case with crunched (clown barf perhaps?) carpet pad. This stuff comes in about five thicknesses and the best I've tried had a blue plastic coating on one side. You can cut this stuff to fit with pinking shears, a good pair of fabric scissors or a utility knife. I glued it to the foam with dabs of contact cement, BLUE SIDE OUT. This side is supposedly faced with a neutral PH substance which won't react with varnish or lacquer and it works. Compressible, cheap, and the final fabric can really be worked around and in the cavity.

Not such a Big secret - Glue the foam backing tight to the frame, use the carpet backing with only a bead of glue in the middle. The upholstery finish cloth can then be slid behind the foam to make a more - ah - competent looking and better fitting seam.

Your results may vary - I know mine have - depending on the humidity.

[thistle3585]

I wouldn't suggest using the two part foam. Yes, the chemical compounds, and mess, mixing etc. should be taken in to consideration, but most important is long term use. The foam ages and becomes brittle. The more you use it, ie: taking the instrument in and out, the quicker it will deteriorate. It will have a short lifespan for the application.