Tru-oil

[sprucetop1]

After several finishing disasters with both french polish and spirit varnish, I'm going to try Tru-Oil and my order for this product should be delivered this week. My current build has mahogany back and sides so I've also ordered the Tru-Oil filler.

Would like to hear other builders experiences and advice ref. the use of Tru Oil on mahogany, spruce and maple.
thanks....John

[David Newton]

I've used Tru-oil on mahogany and spruce, walnut, rosewood and maple. I think it works best if the wood is very finely finished before any finish is applied, almost polished. I use steel wool after the sanding steps. This is because tru-oil finish is pretty thin, you don't build it up like a lacquer. Wipe it on with a little cloth pad, then throw the cloth away. You can do a coat per hour, at least, but do 3 coats and let hang for a day. Finest steel wool after each 3 coats. Maybe 10 coats, maybe more.
All that said, I prefer to french polish shellac the neck after the completion of the tru-oil, several sessions. Tru-oil can come up sticky under sweaty pressure of playing.

[K_D]

I've used it for all (5) of my kits so far and it has been very easy and forgiving. Started out wiping it on but any cloth fibers will leave bumps in the finish so I started thinning it with ~50% naphtha (sp?) and spraying it on with a hobby air brush for much better results. Note it does take longer to dry when thinned and in either case it takes a couple of weeks to fully cure after drying. I usually spray on a couple of coats then lightly buff with 0000 steel wool (for any raised grain areas) then spray at least a few more coats and repeat depending on how glossy I want the finish. Each coat is extremely thin so be careful with the steel wool.

Hope this helps,
Keith

[billhay4]

Use a sealer! Especially on the top. If you didn't buy their sealer, use shellac. I used two light coats on mine and the sealer on the top. The softer wood on the top will soak a lot of oil if you don't.
Second, put on lots of thin coats, more than you think. Level them between applications, but beware of sanding through to the wood. Use very light pressure, steel wool, or very fine sandpaper.
It makes a nice finish and should polish well, but wait at least two weeks for it to dry before polishing. You can apply new coats after a few hours, but let the final one set for the two or more weeks.
Bill

[thistle3585]

I too have used it and used shellac as the sealer. I think I sanded to 1200. I tried putting on thick coats but it sagged. Lots of thin coats. I think I scuff sanded every 2-3 coats using a 3M fine finishing pad. I also used shellac on the neck instead of Tru-oil. I don't know anything about the Tru-oil sealer or filler.

[sprucetop1]

Thanks to all for helpful replies. I'll certainly go with the advice to use a sealer and shellac will be my first choice. I'll practice on scrap using all the suggestions made before trying the oil on the instrument. Wood finishing is not my strong point......John

[oldwave maker]

Check out Ellis mandos for perfection in tru-oil fp over micromeshed behlens rockhard- top of the finishing food chain imo, that oil 3d's the wood even better than shellac.
just posted pic of the back of my humble tru-oil tribute to tremendous tom at the post a pic/sunbursts dept.

[Mattg]

Order it? Heck, just go over to the sporting goods dept at you local WalMart. If you don't live near one, I'll be guessing you live on Mars or something. This stuff has been used for years on gun stocks. It is a penitrating finish and it works really well on guitar necks and, well, gun stocks.

[Bill Snyder]

...just go over to the sporting goods dept at you local WalMart. If you don't live near one, I'll be guessing you live on Mars or something.
or the U.K. (which according to sprucetop1's profile he does). #http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/laugh.gif

[Magnus Geijer]

I slathered it on thickly with a paintbrush on my #1, then let dry for six hours or so, then slathered on again. Repeat three or four times, then sand smooth and rub on a couple of thin layers via the rag method. Worked very nicely for me. Since then I have used the tru-oil filler/sealer, and I like it a lot too. It's available from LMII. Probably at most gun stores as well.

/Magnus

[oldwave maker]

bought a bottle this week from china's 8th largest trading partner for $4.67, should be enough to fp a dozen mandos. you might check www.birchwoodcasey.com for across the pond suppliers, even with vat and shipping it should cost less than a couple of pints, tho it doesnt taste as good to me....

[sprucetop1]

It's available in the UK from gun dealers and also David Dyke tonewoods in Sussex. Ebay UK is also a good source. I also bought the Birchwood Casey sealer/filler and am trying that as a sealer/filler as well as shellac on mahogany. Initial results are very encouraging with the B.C. sealer filler plus 2 coats of Tru oil. I've several more coats to put on and then further trials with various grades of Micromesh before risking all on the instrument....thanks again for all posts....John

[Mattg]

I thought WalMart took over the world! I here they are planning a super store on Mars anyway.

[sprucetop1]

Never heard of WalMart....who are they????...John

[french guy]

WalMars , not Walmart for the far foreigners

[Bill Snyder]

Never heard of WalMart....who are they?http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/rock.gif...John
Since there is no http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif in your post I will act as though you are serious. Wal-Mart is the largest discount retail chain in the world with annual sales well in excess of $300 billion this year.

[sprucetop1]

Well even at $300 billion of retail sales they've yet to sell me anything.......don't think they are here in the UK....but I might just be wrong there....John

[David Newton]

I've yet to get more than two instruments from a bottle, not because I used it up, but because it dries up so fast. I turn it upside down to make it skin the "bottom" but a half bottle will stiffen up completely. Doesn't really matter, it is inexpensive. I've shifted over to FP shellac now anyway.

[Bill Snyder]

I've yet to get more than two instruments from a bottle, not because I used it up, but because it dries up so fast. I turn it upside down to make it skin the "bottom" but a half bottle will stiffen up completely. Doesn't really matter, it is inexpensive. I've shifted over to FP shellac now anyway.
Tung oil (at least the polymerized version) will do the same and jell if left with air at the top. As you use it up fill the bottle with clean pebbles to bring the finish back to the top of the bottle.

[Bill Halsey]

I have used Tru-Oil in the past and was able to save a partial bottle by putting a small C-clamp on it. Squish the plastic bottle to evacuate all the air, then slap on the cap. Leave the C-clamp in place until next use. Have also used aerosol Tru-Oil, but it is much thinner and takes a dreadfully long time to achieve any build. No longer use either one.

[ellisppi]

Tru-oil life can be extended greatly with Bloxygen, but without it, its only good for about 3 weeks.

[Chadmills]

In the UK Asda is part of the Wal-Mart "family"

I got Tru-Oil over here no problem, but from a "sporting goods" supplier, not luthiery.

[sprucetop1]

A further query.....what is the best stain to use under Tru-Oil, water based or alcohol based or does it matter?.....John

[billhay4]

I have used water based under mine with no problems. Remember, I used sealer first.
Bill

[sprucetop1]

Thanks Bill...I'll try that.....John