Weber custom elite f

[Rick Banuelos]

I'd hesitate to call this a new 'standard model'. We're building a small number of A-style and F-style mandolins that don't carry any standard spec; we simply find the best tonewoods we have, and build an individual instrument that exemplifies our creativity and adherence to high-quality craftsmanship. So far, there are very few of these available in the country, and very few will be built during the calendar year. Here is the spec for this one:

-Highly aged solid spruce top
-.040 white-black-bound f-holes
-3mm dot fret markers on a double-cutaway ebony fretboard
-Custom Antique Tobacco Sunburst color atop a one-piece flame maple back
-High-gloss true spirit varnish finish
-Tung-Oil sealed peghead to blend-in with the fretboard

This mandolin is enroute to The Mandolin Store in Wickenburg, Arizona.

[Rick Banuelos]

Back Detail

[Rick Banuelos]

Close-up

[Steve Cantrell]

Sharp, Rick. I like those bound f-holes. Very nice

[Rick Banuelos]

Binding Detail

[Rick Banuelos]

F-hole binding detail

[Rick Banuelos]

I have quite a few photos of this instrument; I promise I won't post them all.

[Rick Banuelos]

Peghead Detail. I love the way our MOP looks when just sealed with tung oil. It "pops".

[Rick Banuelos]

The goal with this style of finish on the peghead was to create more harmony between the peghead and the fretboard.

[Ken Berner]

Outrageously beautiful, without being over-the-top. Nice going, Rick and STE craftsfolks! I really like ivoroid binding and the minimal amount of binding around the 'f" holes; just enough outline. The headstock is really neat, as well. What "grade" of tonewoods did you use in this mandolin?

[Rick Banuelos]

As in, the number of "A"s involved?

[Rick Banuelos]

We don't usually go by the standard "A" system; if any player specifically orders "AAAAA" flame maple, that's the way we find it. The wood we used for this particular instrument was chosen as a perfcet balance between visual and sonic aesthetics.

[Domhnall]

She's a beauty, thats for sure.

[Nick Triesch]

Rick. If you guys are going for perfection, I think you have found it! Fantastic!!! Nick

[jasona]

Very beautiful!

[Glassweb]

Strange looking finish job on the back... maybe it's the photo. Time for a tailpiece revision... as in James...

[Big Joe]

Hey Rick...I love the color. I think you are building the best stuff of your company. It is good to see the growth. Tell Bruce I like what I see!

[Chris Biorkman]

Strange looking finish job on the back... maybe it's the photo. Time for a tailpiece revision... as in James...
I think the finish looks great. I also like the Weber cast tailpiece.

[Mark Walker]

Not too shabby! In fact, downright beautiful!

[Kevin Briggs]

Looks great. I'm not a "f-hole binding" kinda guy, but it certainly looks great.

As far as the tailpiece..., why switch to the James or Monteleone? That's the mainstream, man. For my taste, unique and orginal is better.

[Chris Biorkman]

Are Weber's f-holes bigger than most? It appears to be that way on a lot of their mandolins that I have seen.

[red7flag]

That is a beautiful instrument. #I am not an F hole binding fan, but if I had to have it done, I would want it done that way, with taste. #I really liked the Weber tailpiece for a long time, but I agree, it is time to get a new look or upgrade the old look. As some have noted on other threads, I have found them difficult to restring with. #Overall, I really like the direction that the STE are heading, new but incorporating traditional concepts, giving it a fresh new look, but keeping the basic form in touch.
Tony

[mandopete]

Man that binding on the f-holes is outrageous - you folks are just killing it!

one a scale of 1 to 10 - it's a 10.

[pickinNgrinnin]

A beautiful Mandolin - a real jaw dropper.

I like the Weber tailpiece. Looks great and they are extremely functional. Don't mess with it. http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/mandosmiley.gif

[jferg9]

Stunning for sure.

[Kevin Briggs]

Regarding the f-holes...:

If you look up pics of some older Webers, they have pretty big F holes. The newer ones have deliberatley smaller f holes. I asked someone there about it (Rick, John, or Mary), and they said it is a visual difference only, and that it is not an effort to change the tone of the instruments.

That said, I used to own a 2005 Bitteroot, I now own a 2007 Fern, and I've played a few 2007 Webers: another Fern with red spruce, A Big Sky (cedar), and Hyalite. I haven't noticed any tonal difference that I can attribute to the f holes.

Here's a pic of the current f holes. It's my Fern (had to add that glorious statement):

[Kevin Briggs]

Here's a good look at the old f holes. That's me playing my 2005 Bitteroot. It had a red sprcue top, Fern burst, maple, gold, etc:

[Kevin Briggs]

Here's one more point of comparison on the newer holes. That's me with my Fern a month ago. By the way, my Fern has a red spruce top and custom neck. I've recently played the cedar Big Sky I mentioned above, and I much prefer the complex, full-bodied, responsiveness of the red spruce. STE has earned a good reputation regarding their cedar topped instruments, but I have first hand knowledge of the superior job they can do with spruce.

Please refrain from commenting about my manly physique.

[Russ Jordan]

[QUOTE]I like the Weber tailpiece. Looks great and they are extremely functional.

Perhaps I am a clutz, but I found the Weber tailpieces pretty aggravating to change strings on. There seem to be a lot of wood nymphs used on Webers--do the tp's contribute to unwanted overtones?

Rick B--these mandolins you folks are turning out recently are beautiful!

[red7flag]

I had the same problem with my Bitterroot when I had it. At first I assumed that was me, as it was my first mandolin. #As I got other mandos, I found they were easier to restring. #I will say that the Bitterroot did not have any problems with wood nymphs or overtones. #That instrument was clear as a bell. #Just my take.
Tony

[Randy King]

Howdy Rick

Thats by far the coolest mandolin I've seen. You Sound To Earth folks have come to a new milestone with the colors and finishes of your mandolins. I'm sure it has awesome volume too, just like all other Weber's I've heard, including my Maple Bitterroot.

Randy

[Dick Wade]

I am in love with my cedar topped yellowstone and have not played many mandos that sound as rich. I would love to get my hands on one of these new ones. That looks like one that could get my MAS started up again. Keep up the fantastic craftsmanship and open minded innovation.

[Peter Hackman]

Sharp, Rick. I like those bound f-holes. Very nice
My Levin Aristrokrat had bound f-holes; wonder why that isn't the norm.

[Zako]

Wow is all I can say.

It's people like you guys, Rick, that keep us drooling at our computers all day instead of practicing. If I wasn't already so in love with my Hyalite...Sorry, enough said. Don't want to get her jealous or anything.

[Rick Banuelos]

[QUOTE]I like the Weber tailpiece. Looks great and they are extremely functional.

Perhaps I am a clutz, but I found the Weber tailpieces pretty aggravating to #change strings on.
I've taken the liberty to illustrate how I do it; I find that it takes some of the frustration out of the process. First, I put a slight bend on the end loop:

[Rick Banuelos]

Like so (please forgive the long nails; I also play fingerstyle guitar):

[Rick Banuelos]

...I make sure the loop faces upward...

[Rick Banuelos]

...I bring it underneath, next to its post...

[Rick Banuelos]

...here's a side view of the same shot...

[Rick Banuelos]

...I then turn the string over so the bent loop faces downward...

[Rick Banuelos]

...and pulll it flush with the post.

[Rick Banuelos]

I also keep the string under a little tension as I'm bringing it to the peg...

[Rick Banuelos]

...pull the string tight-ish through the peg...

[Rick Banuelos]

...tie it off by looping back...

[Rick Banuelos]

...underneath...

[Rick Banuelos]

...and then tightly back over the top...

[Rick Banuelos]

...Finally, with the string still under a bit of tension, I bring it to pitch (moving my fingers out of the way, of course, and cut off the string end while pulling on the end to prevent marring the peghead. I know you all know how to change strings, but I thought I'd share my method if it would help with the tailpiece. As always, this is my method-- YMMV.

[Mark Walker]

Rick - I do something similar to re-string my Silver Angel - which has hooks on the underside of the tailpiece. #(IT's a custom tailpiece Ken Ratcliff put on about 3 dozen of his mandolins for a few years. #It's about in the middle of this thread HERE (http://www.mandolincafe.net/cgi-bin/ikonboard.cgi?act=ST;f=15;t=28422;hl=silver+angel+ 231).) #

Always fighting gravity, http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif I also use a Kyser banjo capo up toward the nut to keep tension on the string giving me two free hands to engage the tuning post and so on.

Great photos! #Thanks for sharing.

[Jim Garber]

I've taken the liberty to illustrate how I do it; I find that it takes some of the frustration out of the process. First, I put a slight bend on the end loop:
Excellent stringing method. However I use the Frank Ford method of loop bending:


A better method of bending just the loop is to grab a pencil, and use the pointy end as a mandrel. You'll have a choice of diameters, and you can bend the loop easily by holding down the very end of the loop with your fingernail, and bending just the loop section.

http://www.frets.com/FRETSPages/Musician/Mandolin/MandoString/MandoStringViews/pencilbend.JPG

Works for me...

Jim

[Rick Banuelos]

One of the reasons I put the bend a bit further back is that the bend will usually push against the underside of the tailpiece, which keeps the string firmly planted on the post, even if there's not tension on the string. That being said, I use pencils to bend 'em all the time.

[mandopete]

I've taken to using a piece of masking tape to secure the string to the tailpiece. This works really well on my Collings and eliminates the need to keep the string under constant pressure (to keep if from popping out of the tailpiece).

[Spot]

allo folks
On my Collings, Oakwood and Eastman, I simply blob a lump of bluetack stuff over the loop and post...bingo!! 2 hands free to get pricked at t'other end!! It easily dabs off with more BT

regards to all Spot in UK http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif