Binding Tape

[zeke]

I've been masking off my binding the last few instruments that I've built, and it definately speeds things (scaping) up. But it still doesn't stay on the scroll or in the curves very well, and during the coloring (by gun or airbrush) it inevitably comes loose, usually at an inopportune time. And they leak. So the scraping hasn't been quite been eliminated or even reduced more than half. I've used 3m paper tapes, scotch auto plastic tape, and FBS brand (another autobody brand). So what do ya'll use when you mask bindings that actually stay in place for a day?

[tope]

I'm using the Scotch 471 plastic tape, a heat gun does help to set things in place. I also use clear scotch tape on the back and scroll buttons. I tape off the button and trim with an xacto. Takes a long time to mask everything but worth it. I get some minor leakage hear and there.

[Jim Hilburn]

Zeke, I've found that even with taping, you will have to scrape the inside line no matter what. You are only going to keep the color off most of the binding. With the auto tapes,in most of the tight bends, you have to lock it down with one finger and stretch it into the shape you want, but its still hard to do the scroll this way.
A trick Bennedetto does is to use regular tan masking tape and cover the entire scroll. You can see the binding through it, so you carefully use a razor to cut along the binding line.You have to be careful not to cut too deep and after peeling away the excess, it's a good idea to use naptha wherever tape was contacting the wood.And you will still need to do a final scraping.

[Chris Baird]

The trick for getting tape around curves is to cut it up into 1/16ths with a razor blade the use as many as you need to cover the curves. I never use the natural edge of the tape either. I always use a razor blade to get a nice straight edge.

[Joe F]

Many years ago, in my model airplane building days, I used to use something called "liquid frisket" to mask off irregular areas for painting. #It was brushed on and hardened to a rubber-like consistency, which could then be peeled off after painting.

I don't know if it's still around, or if it would be compatible with the wood finish or the binding material, but it might be another option to consider.

[Jim Hilburn]

Tope, I should have read your post more thouroughly.
Frisket can be helpful, but not for getting a clean sharp line.

[tope]

Jim, The clear scotch tape as a frisket does give me a good sharp line. Being clear you see the edge your trimming to. And I do clean up the edges with naptha all the way around.

[Jim Rowland]

Hey,Jim H.:

I have the same agonies as anyone else cleaning up around the scroll. I've been pondering some sort of cosmoline-like sealer for the job to be applied before the binding is glued on. That might enable one to achieve a clean line of demarkation between ivoroid and lacquer. I've tried all the other masking ploys with varying degrees of success and am wondering if the Liquid Frisket would be tough enough to do the job. What do you think?

Jim

[Michael Lewis]

This is one of those areas where you just need to practice practice practice. So many areas of work are sufficiently difficult that folks try to figure other easier ways of doing them. This CAN lead to better ways of working, but often it just lets us know that we need to focus and bear down until we can make it turn out right.

[Jim Hilburn]

Tope, I never thought of scotch tape, but I would worry that it might lift the grain on spruce when removed. But I'll give it a try next time.
Grow, my experience with liquid frisket, and I just gave it another try, is that it's impossible to paint it on in a sharp line. It's useful in keeping stain off the majority of the binding, which, to me, is what taping is about in the first place.

[Jim Rowland]

Jim,I appreciate the difficulty of painting the white fiskett or anything else in a straight or even line. My idea is to paint the stuff on the uninstalled binding,clean up the gluing side and then apply it to the mando. If the WF would hold up under the application process,I'd be pretty sure to have an even line. Again,your opinion.
Jim

[Michael Lewis]

You might try masking off the binding (tape on the adjacent wood), paint on the liquid frisket and let it dry, then peel off the tape. Try it on some scrap to see if it would work. You might have to peel the tape before the frisket dries. http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/coffee.gif http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/cool.gif