installing a pickguard

[Peter Hackman]

When I bought my Collings from Elderly I, they sent along
a mini-pickguard, the kind with pins but no bracket.
I will have it installed
sometime. Of course I will let
a pro handle it, but I'd appreciate a few tips
so as to give the best possible instructions.
I would like to know, e.g.,the optimum position
(my guess is, as high as possible, just within the countours
of the body), also, should it be glued in place,
or will friction keep it there?

[Scotti Adams]

..friction should keep it in place and you want it just below the fingerboard level...not even with it...but just below it..

[Peter Hackman]

Thanks for your reply. I should have realized the
word "high" is ambiguous. I was referring the
positioning of the pickguard along the length
of the body.

[Darryl Wolfe]

Generally speaking, pickguards are usually constructed such that the tip end is located at the 15th fret cross marker.
I use a pair of sharp pionted adjustable dividers to located the pins on the fingerboard and guard. Locate the pins for the guard slightly low/toward the back of the guard and then mark the proper location on the fingerboard. Drill and install the pins in the fingerboard first and then recheck the pin spacing and drill the matching holes in the guard. If the guard is plastic, a small drop of Duco cement with a toothpick will soften the hole allowing for slight correction to the spacing. It will also swell the hole some so that when it dries you have a good tight fit. If the guard is wood you will likely need to glue it to the pins to avoid splitting the ebony? from the friction fit.

[pathfinder]

I recently installed an abbreviated maple pickguard on my Weber, mainly to cover a blemish on it's blonde top. #I used four pins, no bracket, and can offer the following four details:

1) Went with friction to hold the pins (no glue). #So far, it hasn't moved in over two months.
2) As Scotti Adams mentioned, I also went with setting it slightly below fingerboard level.
3) Lined up the pickguard's tapered point precisely with the fingerboard's 15th fret. This covers the blemish, and leaves lots of room between the guard and the bridge.
4) As an added precaution to compensate for not installing a bracket, I glued a piece of cork to the guard's underside so that it just clears the mando's top. #If the guard sustains a blow that might cause the pins to split the fingerboard, the cork will act like a shock absorber, make contact with the top, and hopefully prevent the fingerboard from being damaged. #Just my paranoia acting up, but I feel better knowing the cork's down there.

FWIW, and good luck. #Incidentally, I bought the pickguard here on the Cafe, so thanks to Skip Kelley for the great workmanship. #I'm now waiting for him to offer some truss rod covers in the same maple (hint, hint, Skip!) http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/laugh.gif