Green Wood End Sealer, Wax?

[GaryTimmons]

Hi All,
A friend who is a local tree trimmer and urban logger has offered me a maple log. So far unseen. It will produce usable wood for a mando or the stove. If there is anything I want to set aside to season for a mando, what are my options for sealing the ends of the cuts. The summer temps get in the high 90's and around 100 far to often for my liking. I'm concerned that wax my melt in the heat and be absorbed into the wood and spoil the woods ability to take a finish.
Is this a valid concern? Is regular parafin something to use or some type of paint? Thanks ---G

[sunburst]

I've used end sealer that is parafin wax for years in the middle of Virginia where the summers can get pretty hot. I've never had a problem.
The sealer that I use is a colloidal (sp?) suspension of wax in water. It's easy to use, if somewhat messy, but not so easy to find. Mine is from UC coatings, and there is another brand called Anchor Seal that I am aware of.

One of the things I've learned here at the cafe from Spruce (AKA Bruce Harvey) is his method of disolving parafin (old candles or whatever) in paint thinner to use as a sealer.

[labraid]

Interesting this thread came up, I was just going to ask a question concerning PEG which is a product that replaces water in the wood cell walls, not the cell cavity, to prevent all future dimensional change (and water flow?) in the applied areas. A most-likely overly expensive option, but it doesn't melt as it's not a "coating".
My question was does anyone have any experience using this on musical instruments in the actual building process? I'm not a fan of using weird chemicals, so I wouldn't do it even if it were a good thing, but it was a thought, we who hate dimensional change in our finished products, what would this product do for us? Would be neat to try on a scrapper, put it in direct sunlight or a room with zero/100% humidity and see what happens..
Take it easy,
Brian

[Spruce]

I'd avoid paint, not only because it's messy but because it really doesn't work all that well...

I like the commercial products like Anchorseal, but they are a tad expensive...

I mostly use 75% parafin (old candles--free!) mixed with 25% paint thinner. #The paint thinner makes the wax expand and contract as the wood moves, and doesn't flake off like it would if you just used straight parafin...

Don't think that just because you are sealing the end of a log, you are helping to preserve the wood. #You must mill a maple log as soon as possible into as small of pieces as you can, remove all bark, and then seal the pieces. #

Sealing a log will prevent some cracking, but the log, if left this way, will crack anyway at some point and will also start to fungus if not milled right away.

Luck!

[GaryTimmons]

Thanks for the posts. I am planning on milling the log once it is here. I've started putting the word out that I'm looking for a mill or more info on having someone do it here.
Spruce thanks for your formula. I am assuming that the temp isn't much of an issue once the pieces are sealed and under cover to season.

[Spruce]

"I am assuming that the temp isn't much of an issue once the pieces are sealed and under cover to season."

True...

" I've started putting the word out that I'm looking for a mill or more info on having someone do it here."

You can mill mandolin wood from a maple log with just a chainsaw...
Cut the log into 18-20" lengths, and then mill into eighths using the chainsaw (carefully--this can be a bit dangerous)...
You can then manhandle the eighths onto a bandsaw and mill them into your plates...

Don't forget to leave some 30" lengths near the top of the log (less figure) for your ribstock if you're gonna build F5s...

[GaryTimmons]

Bruce, Thanks for the extra thoughts of experience. I'll keep you posted as to how this all works out.
---G