Flamed f-5 mandolin "in white" from iv

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Just received my "in white" mandolin from International Violin(IV). I had a F-5 flamed kit, but due various reasons and my time constraints, negotiated with Ken at IV to return the kit for a "in white" F-5. I was even able to purchase the hardware parts from the kit as they are not included with the "in White' mandolin. Ken at IV is very helpful and easy to work-with -always wanting a happy customer. My efforts at making posts including images hasn't been too good, so the pictures will follow this post. Following is the sequence of steps I have outlined to complete the mandolin. Comments, corrections, and/or additions from more experienced people would be helpful as this is my first attempt. The steps are:
1.Top & bottom sanding of the re-curve areas & the scroll area mainly for aesthetics with maybe some tone/volume increase.(Orbital sander?)
2.Glue the ebony veneer to the top & bottom of the headstock (drill out tuner holes in veneer after each side is glued in place). (Ebony veneer from rockler))
3.Route the channels for the binding and apply the binding to the head stock. (Three part white/black/white).
4.Sand fit the bridge to the top in location.
5.Perform the final pre-finish sanding.(smaller & smaller grit down to 220 & probably 320 on the top and then with steel wool. A final bright light check for dead flat surfaces and/or wiping surface with naphtha looking for small scratches.
6.Cut the inlays for the head. Apply white to the back,if necessary, and glue in place. #
7.Apply the color stain using mfrs suggested technique.(Trans-tint stain mix of #amber & brown).
8.Apply sealer coat of shellac.(Rattle can of Bulls eye shellac).
9.Apply KTM-9 water based lacquer per mfrs instructions. #
10.Buff to high gloss with car wax.
11.Install & cut nut.
12.Install tail piece and end button.
13.Cut bridge & locate bridge for good intonation.
14.String up & play the dude.

Will now try to post pictures in next post.
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[mrkrishna]

Charles, that axe looks very nice. How much was it? Kerry K

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mrkishua
If you go to International Violin web site and look under the kits & white instruments, I think it lists at $360.00.

Charlie

[violin2233]

Please show us the finished pictures too!

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Here's the head with the Ebony veneer and before the binding Also a pic of the back after the recurve is rough cut in.http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p236/sides7/P1180007.jpghttp://sides7/P1210009.jpg


Charlie

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After marking a pencil line 7/8 inch from the edge of the mando (top & bottom) I put a drum sander attachment on my dremel tool & followed the pencil line around the mando (stopping as it reaches a location to blend into the ridge going into the scroll.. You must hold the sanding drum at an angle and pull it toward yourself as you sand the ditch (valley) into the top & bottom. I tried to maintain a constant angle between the sanding drum and the surface to get a constant deepth to the ditch. I then sanded into the bottom of the ditch going from the outside edge down to the bottom. I then sanded from the inner side of the mando down into the bottom of the ditch. I did this sanding with one of the SEARS three floating headed sanders with rough grit sand paper pads. This is what I ment by rough sanding the recurve. I am still in process of doing the various stages of finer & finer grit sanding and will do final prefinish with very fine steel wool. All sanding beyond the rough sand, is being done with a hard flat sanding tool (I use a Great Planes hand sander) A considerabe amount of my time right now is involved with cutting the rabbit around the headstock in preparation for installation of a W/B/W binding which matches the existing binding around the body.
As you can see, I haven't progressed enough to comment on the tone, sound, or volume of this mandolin. Be assured I will post my finding as go along on this project. I can tell you I am pleased with the mandolin "as received" including the quality of worksman ship and the wood. My next post will show a picture of the headstock with the binding rabbit cut - followed by a picture of the headstock with the binding installed. Please be aware that I am not an experienced builder and this is my first one. As such, you should probably seek additional confirmation of the methods I using. The Mandolin Cafe is my prime source of information. IMHO, the "In white" F-5 mando is worth the price, but I won't know what I have till its done. When I reach that point, I will take this mando to a local luthier to set up including install & cut the nut groves, install & cut the bridge groves set the action. Then I'll find out what I have.

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Here is the top with the recurve rough cut in. Didn't take it as far as the back as I don't know how complete the inside grafuation were cut.http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p236/sides7/P1210010.jpg

[Don Grieser]

Velveeta, the luthier's secret weapon! http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif

Your mando is looking good! How did you do the recurve?

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Don
I just added an edit to my previous post to describe how the recurve was done.
Charlie

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I'm going to #post 2 pictures of the mandolin head stock: FIRST is after the rabbit for the binding has been cut; SECOND is after the binding is installed. There is some more clean-up to do around the outside edges of the head to get the wood/binding surface
sanded even. This is my first attempt. Next on my agenda will be the inlays in the headstock, A "Howling Coyote" and the words "THE CHAZ"
Charlie[img]http://http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p236/sides7/P1120http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p236/sides7/P2080013.jpg

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The Mando is ready to go into the finishing process. The tint has been applied and a layer of sealer has been applied and sanded with 400 grit. The inlays on the head stock are complete but a seal coat has not yet been applied.
Like everyone says when starting this activity, "the next one will be a lot better."
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[violin2233]

Nice large pictures! The flame came out nicely after you stained it. Will you varnish this Mandolin?

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Ken
Today I put on 5 applications of KTM-9 water based lacquer,at one hour intervals. Tomorrow I will do the same and then let it cure about a week. Here in the Tucson climate, things tend to lose their moisture rapidly. I'm trying to get the wet sanding, buffing and wax on before I head back to WA state on May 12th. That's the goal anyway.

Charlie http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif

[Bernie Daniel]

sides7: Like everyone says when starting this activity, "the next one will be a lot better."


I really do not think you have to worry about that. #What you have looks terrific to me.

I can't help but wonder what it will sound like. #I'm pretty excited and I'm 800 miles away from it!

Is there a detailed discussion of the effect of the "recurve" on the sound on this board?

Also if one were to buy a kit (rather than a mando in white) would you have approached the recurve differently? For example working both sides of the plates?

If you are pushing to get your finish on before May 12 do not bother to answer my question in any detail - I expect to get Siminoff's new book this week maybe the answer is in there.

PS -- I love the coyote! #They are among the coolest animals on this planet -- I wish so many folks did not have it in for them.

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Bernie,
Thanks for the kind words. I also am very curious as to what the mando will sound like. It has never been strung up and won't be untill completely finished. I have purchased the needed fret files from Stu Mac, so will be doing the nut & bridge myself (not what I originally planned) I have a luthier here in Tucson I planned to use, but will be gone before he can do the work. I may end up having to get a pro set up in WA.,if I screw things up.
I don't have any experience to draw from, and since this is an "in white" instrument, I decided to try & cut the recurve more pronounced hoping that it would improve the mando's volume. How well the mando was graduated or if the tone bars were shaved/tuned is a total unknown. Ken at IV said the "in whites" are graduated. The recurve always stood out on the back, and now as I add the finishing lacquer, the recurve on the top is also quite evident. I like the look.
Good luck on your up coming project.
Charlie

[guitar junkie]

Any chance of the pictures being reposted on this?