Beginner troubles

[jaz825]

Hey, I received my mando and was so excited until I tried tuning my instrument and get breaking the bottom strings due to tuning. I have a kentucky 160s and whenever I tune them to E(using the korg chromatic tuner Ca-30 set to 440hz the strings break). Im very frustrated. Any suggestions or help on how to tune so i don't keep breaking the stirngs

[mikeo2]

I would take it to a local tech (or somebody who knows mandolins) and make sure the string isn't rubbing on something. The CA-30 is actually the tuner I keep on my desk at work, and I tune everything with it all the time, so I don't think the tuner is at fault. The factory strings on those mandolins suck, so I would expect to break the first pair. However, if your installing more than one new pair and they are all breaking, you have a problem. As long as you aren't trying to tune them an octave higher than they should be, I would have to think there might be a rough spot on the nut, bridge, or tailpiece the strings are hitting.

Good luck!

[jaz825]

how do i knwo if i am tuning an octave higher?

[fredfrank]

I would take it to a local tech (or somebody who knows mandolins)
I second this idea.

[Got8Strings]

I agree - and make sure they show you their "magic"

[Alex Fields]

how do i knwo if i am tuning an octave higher?
E strings are pretty darned tight at the right octave, if you keep going after you've already passed an E where they're tight, it's too far. It's the same E as a violin, or an octave above a guitar E, if you have either of those instruments to use as a comparison.

[jaz825]

because i noticed that i was hitting e sharp and not getting to the e, which i noticed was too high, am i correct?

[jaz825]

and here is another newbie question, when im tuning it how do i know which way to go, for example if i want e and am at e sharp how do i know which way to go, or what to look for in sound in lehmans terms, im not really sure the technical terms of saying it, thanks

[SternART]

E sharp is too high if you were shooting for E, you should have loosened the string or made the pitch lower.
Sounds like you just went too far......I agree taking it to someone who knows mandolins is good advice, once you
hear it tuned right, you'll have a better chance of replicating it. Hey don't feel too bad.....we all have to
start somewhere.....we just need to learn from our mistakes. I've broken a few myself years ago.

[Greenmando]

I started with a old fashioned pitch pipe, not very accurite but it worked. Having one around would tell you which octave you are in. Once you have your G in tune it is just up in fifths to tune the rest. A tuning fork in G would work well.

There is a string company that actually gives you a extra E string in a pack since they break so easily.

One of the best classes my wife and I was music theory. Really helps with the whole E flat, E and E sharp thoughts. To sum it up is 1/2 notes, a half below is flat, a half over is sharp.

[Klaus Wutscher]

#Hey don't feel too bad.....we all have to
start somewhere.....we just need to learn from our mistakes. #
Now ain´t that the truth.. the first instrument I owned was a 12 string guitar. I reconed that the octave pairs should sound "nice" (it was not in tune when I got it), so I tuned them to 5ths instead of octaves - then I tried to learn a E chord which sounded, well, interesting... http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/tounge.gif

[jaydee]

It occured to me while reading your post that you may be tuning the wrong strings to E. When you said "bottom strings", did you mean the course (pair of strings) located lower than all the others, which is the E course, or the course that is lowest in pitch and closest to you when the mandolin is in playing position? That course is tuned to G, and tuning it to E would break those strings every time.This could be an easy mistake to make when you're just getting started, especially if you have played guitar before where the lowest-pitched string is tuned to E.

Jeremy

[Katie]

I was thinking the same thing. If you are tuning the thickest set of strings, they should be tuned to G. I would second (or tenth...whatever number I am) the recommendation that you take it to a shop and let them show you how to tune it. It might take a little time to train your ear to hear the changes in pitch between E and E#.
I also remember that when I got my first mandolin, it wasn't set up right. It was tuned to an octave below where it should be, and trying to tune it properly would have broken the strings. The fix took less than a day, and I don't think they charged me for anything (I was taking lessons at the store though).
Good luck with everything!
*^_^*
Katie

[JEStanek]

This is a midi resource so you can hear the pitches your strings are supposed to be click this link with pictures is great (http://www.get-tuned.com/mandolin_tuner.php). You can google Online Mandolin Tuner and get plenty of hits. These will help you enusre you're tuning the right pair to the right G-D-A-E pitch going from thickest to thinnest strings.

[jaz825]

thanks i just got some new strings goign to put them on, and hopefylly tune it right this time

[jackofall]

Something I realised the other day when an E nearly took my eye out...

I have broken E strings when tuning up fresh sets a few times. Thinking back, it has always been around autumn/winter, and they have (I believe) been from sets I have just been out to get from the car. I don't recall ever having it happen with strings that have been in the house a while.

Could temperature or change of temperature be an issue with string breakage?

[Mark Walker]

I third (or fourth or whatever) the idea of having a qualified expert peek at your mandolin. #
I had a similar problem with an Alvarez 12-string guitar - on the G-octave string. #(A very light-gauge string.) #As I'd wind my string down the tuning peg and tighten it toward pitch, it would snap. #Turns out there was a burr on the inside of what should be a smooth beveled edge of the hole on the tuning peg. #I'd run the string in there and take a turn and start tightening, and all would be well until the tension got to the point where the sharp burr would essentially 'cut' the string. #
When I explained my dilemma to a luthier - and mentioning this happened only about half the time I replaced strings - he identified the problem right away. #(The side of the post I 'started' the string in determined if the string was going to engage that 'cutting burr.' #So I basically had a 50-50 change of stringing it up in such a way that the burr would cut the string!) #A few strokes with a small round file solved the problem permanently!

I've broken a few on my mandolin E strings too; I often put a little bit of powdered graphite (or just rub the tip of a pencil) in the slot on the nut as a string can sometimes 'bind' in there and break too.

Good luck! #http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif

[Celtic Saguaro]

A trick that helps is not to tune up your E strings all at once. #Change your strings after you're finished playing for the night. Change and tune the G, D and A strings up to pitch. #Leave the E's tuned lower, say, tuned to C or C# overnight. #The strings will stretch which is what you want. The next day you can tune the whole thing all the way up, and you will almost never break an E string.

[Mark Walker]

...Leave the E's tuned lower, say, tuned to C or C# overnight. #The strings will stretch which is what you want. The next day you can tune the whole thing all the way up, and you will almost never break an E string.
That's a great tip. I don't leave mine overnight, but DO bring them up to pitch VERY gradually! I think sometimes people just crank away and cause them to snap.