Polishing fret after filing

[kvk]

I filed the one high fret on my IV kit mando and the buzz is almost gone. I'm going real slow. I just have a little flat file and I'm trying to run it at multiple angles to keep the top of the fret round.

The fret is kind scratchy now so I figure I want to polish. Anyone suggest something around the typtical shop that will work? Will super fine sand-paper work or micromesh? Any other suggestions?

[Celtic Saguaro]

The usual drill for any kind of polishing is progressively finer sandpaper or other polishing matierals. Starting too fine just makes it take far longer to get the scratches out.

[sunburst]

Sometimes there's no good answer to certain questions about lutherie, because the questioner is getting ahead of him/herself.

I sometimes get questions like "what do I do now?", and the real answer is "go back a few steps, and do it right the first time".

This is almost one of those cases, no offence intended, but that should explain why my answer is what it is.

First, the frets need to be milled level. Only occasionally will an individual fret need to be worked alone if the frets are correctly leveled. A flat file and/or a flat sanding block with sandpaper can be used to level the frets. Here (http://www.frets.com/FRETSPages/Luthier/Technique/Guitar/Frets/D35Refret/D35refret6.html#26)is an illustrated description of the process from frets.com.

After the frets are level, you'll need at least one special tool. The "traditional" method or re-crowning the frets is using a safe edge triangular file. It's not too difficult to recrown frets that way, but you either have to buy or make the file. If you have a grinder, you're in luck. Just gring the sharp corners of the file smooth so that they will not cut the fingerboard wood as you file the frets.

I usually use a re-crowning file. there are several types available from lutherie supply houses.
If I ease up on the file when the fret is about done, and am careful of the speed of the file so there are no chatter marks, the frets are pretty smooth when I'm done re-crowning, and 0000 steel wool will polish them up just fine.
Some people devise or buy equipment to polish frets to a high gloss, but I see no need to spend the extra time because I think mine look and feel fine after careful filing and steel wooling.

Another important thing. Whatever method you use, the wood of the fingerboard needs to be protected during the re-crowning process. I've seen a lot fingerboards damaged by sloppy fret work. Masking tape, placed right up to both edges of the fret being worked is usually enough to protect the wood from stray tools that ocasionally slip off of a fret, as well as the rubbing of the safe edge of a triangular file.

[kvk]

Thanx all. All the info pretty much sets me up.

[Willie]

Sunburst...Does the glue from masking tape "melt" a finish such as lacquer or varnish? I had some frets crowned and when I get the mando back it had some places on the side of the fingerboard that looked like the finish had melted or a paint remover was spilled on it....Thanks....Willie

[violin2233]

The answer is Micro Mesh. It will take the fine scratches off of the fret and then with the finer grit it will pish the fret until it looks new. Dunlop uses it in there fret polishing kit and I have used it for years. You can buy it padded or un padded. I like it padded for the frets. Stewart MacDonald and International Violin sells it.

[sunburst]

Willie, masking tape does not harm the finish unless it is left on for very long periods of time, like weeks, in most cases. the same two strips of tape can be moved from fret to fret as you go, until they are worn out or damaged, and the tape is only on the instrument for a few minutes for each fret.

I don't know what happened to the finish on the sides of your fingerboard, but it wasn't damage from the correct use of any tape that is normally used by luthiers.

[mythicfish]

As an alternative to ordinary masking tape you might try the blue painters tape which is much less gummy.
The best non-marring tape I've used is the Japanese rice paper tape. It's very thin and you may need more than one layer for this application. I use it for taping sandpaper to the top when fitting a bridge - zero residue.

Curt

[sunburst]

Actually, I usually do use the blue tape.
It's all masking tape to me. If painters use it to 'mask' things, well, that's masking tape to me.