Lemon Oil

[Bob Denton]

I have used lemon oil on ebony and rosewood fingerboards, bridges, etc., when changing strings, in the belief that it keeps the neck from shrinking, lubricates the frets for less wear and makes the strings last longer.

Is this a myth? What happens if I get lemon oil on pick worn areas with no finish, especially spruce?

Could lemon oil be detremental to the finish on an off-the-shelf Fern?

Thanks!

[Paul Hostetter]

It's a myth. Oil can't rehydrate wood, because it's not water. Water doesn't do it well either. When hardwoods are dead and dry, they're dry, and that's the way they're supposed to be. Less is more when it comes to oiling fingerboards. Oil penetrating through boards can undo glue joints and prevent them being reglued.

Lemon oil is a very vague industry term. Some of the stuff marketed as lemon oil is a synthetic acid with a fragrance that's intended to eat into finishes so that the wax it's associated with will stick better. Some of it is very toxic. Some of it is really lemon oil.

[Big Joe]

Most of the stuff sold as Lemon oil has little lemon or oil in it. It is usually a mix of waxes and chemicals which can gum up the finish on your instrument or your fingerboard. There are a couple of fingerboard conditioners which do work well for fingerboards and that is your best bet. Avoid most polishes on your instruments. Ensure they do not have silicone in them if they are nitro based finish. Gibson makes a good fingerboard conditioner and polish and Dave Harvey makes his Jubilee Polish that works well. The best cleaner is a damp, not wet, rag to remove gunk and then dry it carefully with a soft cotton rag. That will usually give all you need for most finishes. If it needs more, use the suggestions above.

[Bob Denton]

Thanks! Glad I asked.

Cya!