Sealing Billets

[John Zimm]

My apologies for bringing this up again when I know full well it has been covered before.

I have just split some walnut billets and want to dry them, and I am just wondering what to use to seal the ends of the wood so it doesn't split. I've got some wax for maing candles, and some lacquer, and I wonder if either of these would work or if I should go out tonight and get some paraffin.

Thanks a lot for any advice.

-John.

[Chris Baird]

I use paraffin candles melted down.

[sunburst]

I use a green wood sealer, but it takes a while to order and get, If you need something now, Bruce Harvey (AKA Spruce) sayes you can disolve paraffin in paint thinner, or probably lacquer thinner.

[Fretdawg]

I read in one of those glossy woodworking magazines a few years ago about using titebond (or any PVA) glue diluted with equal amounts of water. I tried this method on some maple I had milled from trees we lost in Hurricane Fran, and it worked great. The magazine said one of the advantages of using this method is the glue tends to prevent any checks that may have already begun from expanding further. One of the disadvantages of using wax is if you store your wood outside during the summer in my area, the wax tends to melt into a messy goo.

[John Zimm]

Thanks guys. I think for the billets I have now I will try the titebond. I have more to cut tomorrow, so maybe I will try paraffin on them and then see which I like better. Thanks again.

-John.

[Michael Lewis]

The commercially available sealer is called Anchor Seal, and is much like parafin wax with some softeners in it. I use Titebond 2, the water proof one. Sealing bolts or billets is the only use I have for it. It takes 2 or 3 coats to get a good seal, and if a check happens just keep applying the glue until it is sealed over. Lacquer is not s good sealer as it dries brittle, also it is not a good moisture barrier in the first place.

[John Zimm]

Thanks Michael. I put on a coat of the yellow titebond last night and I think I will put on another tonight, if my arms are up to it. I've got a bottle of the titebond liquid hide glue that I thought about using (since I'll use it for nothing else), but I figured that since there is trouble with it drying completely maybe it wouldn't be the best.

Thanks for the input. I appreciate any and all advice.

-John.

[Michael Lewis]

Just throw that liquid hide glue in the trash! Keep an eye on the ends of your wood, and reapply the glue if any checks appear.

[John Zimm]

Just throw that liquid hide glue in the trash!
That seems to be the best place for it, although I keep hoping that some unknown use for it will magically appear. You know we practical Midwesterners. http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif

The billets look good so far. No checking so far, although its only been a few days.

-John.

[Michael Lewis]

Buckley, if this is really fresh wood you must check it every day for at least a month, because if any checks start they get big pretty fast.

[John Zimm]

Thanks Michael-I looked at it last night and saw some checks starting, so I went over all of the ends with my titebond. The wood was cut a little over a week ago, so it is pretty new. I'll check it nightly-after the work of splitting it by hand I want to make doubly sure it works out.

-John.

[mandoryan]

I use the Titebond Liquid Hide Glue for labels. I can't find any other use for it. I'm about ready to throw it out though because it doesn't even work well for that. They get loose every once in a while.