Bridge Questions

[Huda]

Hi there,

I have a Romanian octave mandolin that needs a new bridge. I am looking for a nice balance of sustain and volume. So...

Should I go for rosewood or ebony?

Would the bridge for a regular mando be wide enough for an octave mando?

If I order one from Elderly, do I need to cut my own slots?

If so, how do I do that? Do I need a special cutting tool, or would an Exacto knife be good enough?

Thanks!

[dave17120]

Hello, as I make bridges, I can tell you that most people seem to prefer ebony. Its denser and harder, and maybe transmits the sound better, but how do you measure? I think a lot is down to personnal preference. Dave
PS check your mail.

[Paul Hostetter]

Since you have an unconventional instrument, your chances of getting an off-the-shelf bridge that really works is quite small.

What bridge does it have now? What's wrong with it? Why can't it be rebuilt?

Most of the balance and sustain are in the instrument, not the bridge. Fitting any bridge right will only help actualize the instrument's good qualities. Changing the bridge wood isn't going to yield a profound change unless the bridge is clunky or doesn't fit the top. Or unless the old one was.

Indonesian ebony (the most common today) is dense and heavy. Whether that's a good thing is very subjective. African ebony (hard to find anymore) is quite a bit lighter and more resonant. There are "rosewoods" that are heavier and denser than many ebonies. You can't judge a book by its cover.

If you want to try this yourself, you'll need a lot more than an Exacto knife (you use files for slots) and since your first few bridges will probably be losers anyway, until your learning curve starts giving good results, I'd worry about your technique more than the wood, and practice on any hardwood you can get cheaply and simply. Once you have a feel for how to make a good bridge, make one more from some juicy piece of wood.

[Antlurz]

Paul is entirely correct here. The quality of the wood is lost if the builder doesn't have the technique/methods down close. Correct profiles, shaping, and etc, mean as much or more than the material itself. Once the craftsmanship is acceptable, then the quality of the wood takes on a more significant meaning. Ultimately, the wood is the final answer, but not unless everything else is correctly done..

Ron