Review of Siminoff binding routing tool, part #710

[Darren Kern]

Thought I would post a quick review of this tool in case anyone was considering getting one. #I received mine a few days ago, it came with a nice instruction sheet explaining how to use it, which recommended that it be used with Dremel's part #115 which is a high speed cutter bit. #I bought the cutter bit and did some practicing on some scrap wood before I started cutting on my mandolin back. #My maple back (already attached to the ribs and top) was oversized by up to about 1/2" so I planned to use this tool to cut it to fit the ribs. #This tool made quick work of this task, and I was ready to cut the back binding channel. #

The tool is intentionally slightly off center from the cutter, so one side cuts deeper than the other. #I found that I didn't need to make any adjustments, the deeper cutting side was the perfect depth for my WBW fiber binding that I got from International Violin Company. #I was able to cut the binding channel in only a few minutes. #I took my time and did it in a couple of passes, but it was surprisingly easy to do. #One thing you need to make sure of when using this tool- keep the tip flush with the ribs at all times. #If you don't, and the Dremel dips down at all, you will make too deep of a cut that is on an angle, which wouldn't be good at all. #I'll post a picture to explain what I'm talking about. #Overall I think this is a great tool, and would recommend it to anyone considering buying one. #Hope this helps at least one person, maybe another newbie like me.

[grandmainger]

Thanks for the review Darren. I think I'll get one. I dug the back binding channel on my IV kit with a chisel, and while I'm really proud of it, it was very tricky, and there are lot of spots that are far from perfect...

[otterly2k]

btw, Darren... your kit is looking great!

[dperry]

Hey Darren, thanks for the review. I am glad to hear that it works, I have been wanting to get one but wasn't sure how well that it works. Your webpage is very nice. I like all of the pictures and the "behind the scenes" stories to go along with them.

[sonnyjammer]

Glad you are enjoying the new tool. Do be aware that unwanted tear out can occur without warning, especially on Spruce, leaving an unsightly finished product. There were some threads on this topic a year or so ago. Many of the pros did not recommend if I recall correctly. You might do a search for that subject. Anyway you sound like a careful user so maybe you won't have any troubles. http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/wow.gif

[Stephanie Reiser]

Does anyone know how this tool differs from Stew-Macs?

[grandmainger]

Does anyone know how this tool differs from Stew-Macs?
Stephanie, this is from Sminoff's Site (http://www.siminoff.net/pages/siminoff_parts8.tools&fixt.html):


The small extension or "nose" of our #700 and #710 Dremel® router attachments enables our tool to enter more closely into the scroll then any other binding-notch cutting tool on the market. The small "table" allows our streamline tool to sit on the very edge of the instrument as the extension or "nose" is held flush to the mandolin's side. (The part shown at the left is the #710 thread-on attachmeent for the newer Dremel® tools.)

[Antlurz]

I've modified my Siminoff tool quite extensively. For ME it works fine, but you would have to decide for yourself whether to make these mods.

You may find, as you are cutting that for some reason the tool just flat stops dead and quits moving. Almost like it suddenly got superglued to the body. This puzzled me for a while. I figured out that when the sides are milled flat, it leaves a sharp corner at the bore hole where the cutter comes through, and that sharp edge might grab a slight rise in the wood and dig in, acting like a brake. I took a small file, and *slightly* rounded the sharp corners at "A". Problem solved.

Next, I found that the waist curves cut shallow, and realized the wide flat milled part was lifting the tool on the inside curve, so I slightly radiused the outer portion of the flat edges, at "B ", allowing it to ride tighter in a sharp curve. If you do so, make sure you leave a reasonable flat surface at "C", for adequate support. That allowed the cutter to come closer to maintaining the same depth of cut all the way around.

And finally, on the F5 scroll, the volute causes the tool to rise as it get farther into the curve, so I angled the base a bit which lets part of the volute ride underneath the support surface at "D". Once again, make sure you leave some flat area to maintain a surface to ride on. If you do this, make sure you understand how and why, or you'll ruin a good tool, however, done correctly, it makes a sizeable improvement in Roger's tool.

It also decreases support area a bit, so you need to get a feel for holding it afterwards.

Ron

[Gavin Baird]

Good Post...Gavin

[Jim Hilburn]

I got one of those from Roger in 1979. Only then, Dremels didn't have the threaded adaptor and there was a thumb screw to attach it with.

[sunburst]

Yep. That's the one I have too.
Don't like it, don't use it.

[Antlurz]

I wish the tang was a bit longer. When I'm using it, I use a two hand hold. My right hand holds the Dremel, and I use my left fingers to hold the tang tight against the rib of the mando. That gets your fingers pretty close to the cutter, and a half inch more tang would be a great advantage.

After rereading my original post, it might seem I'm finding fault with the tool. That's not really the case at all. Even as it comes, it drastically simplifies a tedious, delicate, and demanding job. These little mods just make it that much nicer!

Ron

[Jim Hilburn]

I got the Stew-Mac version later on when I got a newer Dremel, but like most builders doing this often, I use the router table upside down method, except; I still do part of the scroll with it because the router table guide rides up on the scroll ridge and doesn't make the full depth of cut.

[kudzugypsy]

i just want to say how amazed i am that darren jumped in there with his desire to build his own mandolin and for all you out there who want to do it - to go ahead. darren hasnt told you - but he is building this whole mando in a small apartment with the most basic of tools, so dont think you need a workshop full of thousands of dollars in specialized equipment....i bet the whole place smells like wood glue!

looks like your having fun darren - cant wait to pick a tune on it http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/mandosmiley.gif

[Darren Kern]

Thanks for the encouragement kudzugypsy... I think I'll try to persuade you to play my mando once I get it strung up in the white, I'd like feedback from a more experienced player about the shape of the neck and other things I can tweak before I stain/finish it.