View Full Version : Set up fix
Yellowmandolin
Nov-18-2005, 4:38pm
I had my mandolin set up about a year ago by a guy who only does setups, I got the feeling he knew what he was doing. Now I am getting some pretty serious fret buzz on my E string on the first fret. Is this a common thing in winter, or from fret wear (although I would expect the problem to disappear if it was fret wear). Or is it a truss rod issue? If it is an error on the part of the luithier, is this kind of thing normally covered free of charge since I already paid $75 for a set up? Thanks...
Bill Snyder
Nov-18-2005, 4:46pm
I would not think that it would be covered if it was done a year ago. A lot can change in a year. Like you mentioned there are humidity factors to consider, fret wear, did you change string gauges, have you adjusted the bridge?
Yellowmandolin
Nov-18-2005, 4:47pm
I did switch to bush's from monroe's, I'll look to see if they are different gauges. Good idea...
Yellowmandolin
Nov-18-2005, 4:50pm
Nope, the E is still .011, hmmm, it must be due to winter comming on. Oh, how I hate cold weather... Would a little truss rod tweak make it better?
sunburst
Nov-18-2005, 4:55pm
Do you mean that the E string is buzzing on the first fret when played open, or the E string buzzes when fretted at the first fret?
If it's the former, it could be a worn nut. If it's the later, it could be a worn first fret. In either case, it could be lack of relief in the fingerboard. All of those are things that can happen with playing wear and/or weather changes, and likely aren't the fault of the set-up tec, especially a year after the work.
There are other things it could be also, but I wouldn't expect a free adjustment, considering wood movement and playing wear.
Yellowmandolin
Nov-18-2005, 8:40pm
It buzzes when played openly. How does a nut become worn? I thought bone/pearl was pretty tough... I play an F5-G so I would assume it is one of those materials and not plastic.
otterly2k
Nov-18-2005, 8:55pm
If you KNOW the buzz is on the first fret, it could also be a high fret...or neck relief...or weather related changes.
frets.com has really good info on how to diagnose buzzes and is worth reading. You may be able to figure it out and fix it yourself. It might also be worth trying slightly thicker e-strings...if the sound and feel are still ok for you...
sunburst
Nov-18-2005, 9:19pm
How does a nut become worn?
Every time you tune, and every time you change strings, and, to some extent, every time you play, you drag the strings through the nut slots.
If the action is set up nice and low, it's not uncommon for the slots to wear to the point that the strings start to buzz on the first fret.
mando_pete
Nov-18-2005, 10:17pm
John,
How would that be repaired? New nut? Could you drop a bit of cyanoacrylic into the slot, that seems very temporary though. Just thinking out loud but very curious to know the answer.
Thanks,
-- pete
sunburst
Nov-18-2005, 10:57pm
Depends.
If there is fret wear, and it looks like it will need a fret job soon, a drop of superglue will last for a while. Build the slot up, then file it to the right height. When re-fret time comes, it'll probably need a new one anyway.
If it needs a fret job now, I'd replace the nut if I was working on it. New frets will be higher, and all the slots will probably be too low.
Some people put a shim of some kind under the nut, and re-file the notches. I seldom do that, because it's not that much more work to just go ahead and make a new one.
Yellowmandolin
Nov-22-2005, 2:55pm
I took it back to that shop and they said the bridge was tilted forward. Ok, I can deal with that, but what would make that happen?
Bob DeVellis
Nov-22-2005, 4:06pm
Changing strings can result in bridge tilt. As you tune up, the strings are pulling toward the headstock. Especially if the string slots are snug, the friction (particularly of wound strings) can pull the top edge of the bridge forward. the feet of the bridge may no longer be flat if the whole bridge has tipped a bit. Or, if the holes the adjustment screws go through on the top part of the bridge are a bit too large, the top part can tip a bit without the bottom part of the bridge having moved. If a thin sheet of paper can partially fit under the back edge of the bridge where it contacts the mandolin, the whole bridge has tilted a bit. It's an easy fix but be sure that the intonation doesn't get messed up by inadvertently moving the bridge too far forward or backward. It might be best not to remove the strings but just to loosen them to the point where you can tip the bridge back a bit. then, be sure the thing doesn't tilt again as you re-tighten the strings. If some of the strings are heavier gauge than the ones that were on before, it might be worth running some folded emory paper through the saddle grooves to give a bit more clearance and smooth things out. Don't go overboard with this; just increase the width enough to facilitate string travel. Then, work some pencil lead into the slots as a lubricant.
GTison
Nov-22-2005, 4:11pm
you can also push it with your wrist while playing. I've got saddle that buzzes when the saddle tips a little bit.
Yellowmandolin
Nov-22-2005, 4:30pm
I do rest my wrist on the G strings while picking the others...That probably did it.