STRAP

[VaFrank]

I am considering buying a Longhollow Softy strap for my Collings MT. The mandolin does not have a strap button installed. So the strap will have to fit around the headstock between the nut and tuner keys. My question is will the Longhollow strap work on my A style mandolin?

Frank

[John Flynn]

I have one and I think it should work. Personally, I would get a button installed on the heel of the neck though. It is a much neater way to do it, IMHO.

[cutbait2]

i stuck a long hollow on my midmo, its too wide, usuable but bugs my hand, on a longer neck might be ok. like the strap on my F though

[VaFrank]

Thank for the response guys.

*jflynnstl: My main concern with the strap was possible interference with my hands. It can be very distracting. Thanks

*cutbait2: I will probably get a button installed on the neck heel. Seems the logical approach. Thanks.

[Richard Polf]

Question: Why don't the builders just start putting a strap button on their "A" mandolins themselves?

[Jim M.]

On my Collings, I put the long laces of the strap under the fingerboard extension and tie a knot in about the location where a strap button would be. Better balance than on the headstock, IMHO, and the strap doesn't get in the way of my left hand.

"Question: Why don't the builders just start putting a strap button on their "A" mandolins themselves?"

Dunno.....Rigel & Phoenix do. Another gripe of mine is WHY are some builders still using those damn tapered wooden tailpins?.....Just put me a nice button on there with a screw please!.......

[Brain]

Here's my Collings with an under-the-fingerboard
strap. I debated for a while whether or not
to install a strap button; I had a strap tied
under the nut for a bit, but I didn't like
the balance. This set up suits me just fine,
perfect balance and no drills involved.

[VaFrank]

Yeah, what Dale said!

[VaFrank]

Brain,

That looks like a good alternative. Thanks for the picture.

Frank

[VaFrank]

Brain,

Where the piece of rawhide forms a loop around itself, does it hold the strap tight against the body of the mandolin? Or is the loop stationary and doesn't slip? Also, how did you tie the rawhide so the it forms the loop? Or is it glued?

Hope this is making sense.

Thanks,
Frank

[cutbait2]

Brian, good idea, my longhollow is designed i think to be an F strap. perhaps if my A had a strap button i could attach it via the holes cut to make the scroll loop (i guess you have to see it) but better yet would be a A style strap. got one of those Dale?
no glue, a bowline is a good loop knot won't slip, easy to untie, works with most lines

[Brain]

Frank,

The loop in the rawhide lace doesn't slide
and there's no glue on any of the knots.

Near the neck joint, the lace forms an
overhand knot around the other piece of
lace as it makes its way way back to the
hole in the strap.

In other words, the lace leaves the
strap, wraps around the mando, and
where it meets up with itself there's
a simple overhand knot tied around the
opposite piece of lace before
the lace re-attaches to the strap.

The leather lace around the mandolin
isn't really tight; I can slide two
fingers in there. I just put
an overhand knot near the neck-joint
to ensure that the mando is balanced
in the right place.

As far as the lace-to-strap knot: I
cut a slit in the strap. Each piece
of lace goes through the slit, around
the outside edge of the strap, back
through the slit and through the loop
created by the lace. When you pull it
snug, there's no way it will come loose.

If you leave some extra length in the lace ends,
you can adjust your strap to the right overall
length before trimming up the ends.

I hope some of this makes sense.

Best,
Brian

[straight-a]

I have an A-9 and I do as Brian does. Works great for me.

Got a couple left...... http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif

Guys, I don't share your aversion to the drill...If mine don't have a button I put one on. Just check with the builder for the preferred (by the builder) location. For instance, don't try to put a strap button on the neck heel cap of a Breedlove....you'll drill right into one of the neck bolts....

And another thing (ala the Dennis Miller Show)....Tailpieces should come with screws & strap buttons should come with the little felt pad........Why in the hell don't they? It's nearly impossible to find suitable screws locally & cutting those felt pieces is a pain in the rear........ok, I feel better now....... http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/tounge.gif

[VaFrank]

Brain,

Thanks very much. Your description is easy to understand. Sometimes I have difficulty visualizing written instructions. Yours was excellent, and I appreciate you taking the time for an in depth explanation.

By the way, nice mandolin. What brand strap do you have on it?

Frank

[Brain]

Hey Frank,

... no problem, and I'm glad my description
made sense as I make a living as a technical writer.

The strap is a Levy, I think. I bought it from
our own Ken Cartwright a couple years back
at a local NW festival. The laces are leather
shoe strings from the local hardware store.

[Walter Newton]

"Question: Why don't the builders just start putting a strap button on their "A" mandolins themselves?"

Because having one installed (or installing one yourself) is such a trivial operation, why put an unsightly button on for those of us who don't want 'em?

[jacobw]

Today I bought this strap (http://www.elderly.com/accessories/items/WMS100-BLK.htm) from a local retailer. I've previously had the Weber strap as well as the Levy strap mentioned above. I tried the Webb strap side by side with the Mandolin Softy and choose the Webb. I like my straps affixed at the nut of my Weber Aspen #1. This strap had the best feel in comfort, the best length adjustment, and the best attachment method compared to the others I've mentioned. I spent as much as I did for the Webb as I did on the first two. Even with an F-Style, I'd try it out.

-Jacob Wegner