how best to fix....

[austin]

Let me preface this by saying I have only done 2 mandos in lacquer so I am really a neophyte with this stuff. #
When I pulled the tape (blue masking) off the fingerboard in order to final sand, the lacquer lifted up in a couple of small spots where the edge of the tape was. #I am a little worried that this means that it didn't adhere very well to the sealer, but it is only in these couple little spots. #(looks kinda like a torn open blister)

My question is, what is the best way to repair this?
My thoughts are...
1. try to leak a little fresh lacquer underneath to re-amalgamate the finish
2. wick some really thin superglue underneath
3. carefully cut out the lifted area and drop fill, level and polish.

What is the best thing to do here?
Thanks,
Austin

[sunburst]

Those are three good ways to fix it.
For #1, I'd use IBIB or butyl celosolve or lacquer retarder to re-flow the lacquer.
#3, I'd use as a last resort if you don't like the results from first #1 and then #2.

Did you use a vilyl sealer? They tend to stick to the instrument better than lacquer sticks to them, usually.

In the future, before you pull the tape, you can use a fine file or sandpaper to cut through the lacquer on the edge of the tape and then pull the tape off. Pulling the tape the right direction is helpful too.
I wouldn't worry about adhesion. It's probably fine. It's real easy to pull chips at the edge of the tape like that.

[austin]

Thanks John, that was nearly an instant response!
I like the idea of running the abrasive along the tape before removing... I should have thought of that. I will try the retarder approach first.
Oh, I used shellac rather than vinyl sealer and have done plenty of testing to make sure it was compatible with the McFaddens. It seems to be a durable bond, but I guess only time will tell...
What would the advantage of vinyl sealer be?(other than I might not have to be so careful of ruining my stain while sealing)

Thank you very much!
-Austin

[sunburst]

I don't think there is an advantage to vinyl sealer. I use shellac, if I use a sealer at all, because I like the color better. The vinyl tends to whiten and decrease depth in the final finish, in my opinion.
It's good for resinous woods like cocobolo and rosewood that can be hard to finish, and, I'm told, you can even lacquer Teak if you seal with vinly first. I'd have to see that, though.
It can help adhesion on some plastic bindings, pearl, and stuff like that that tend to "shed" lacquer. It's sort of like PVA glue, and it sort of "glues" the lacquer to what's under it.

[Dale Ludewig]

I like vinyl sealer if I'm going to topcoat with lacquer. However, shellac is also excellent, from my experience. What kind of masking tape did you use? I don't recommend normal masking tape for masking the fingerboard- the solvents in the finish (whatever kind) tend to leak through and you've got a mess underneath to clean up. As to the edge, John's advice is excellent. File gently. The finish builds up at that point and if you pull off the tape, in my experience you will always compromise the finish on the edge of the fingerboard binding. You can use a razor blade, but you still have a stiff sharp edge that will want to chip. IMHO.

[austin]

I used the blue 3M tape. Is there another tape that might work better? Also, would it be better to tape slightly up the side of the fingerboard binding rather than right at the joint with the wood? It seems like this might make it easier to get a smooth transition between the two without risking sanding into the color when removing the finish ledge.

thanks,
Austin

[sunburst]

I have two different blue 3M tapes, either works fine for me. I think Dale is suggesting using a tape that is intended for lacquer. Those tapes use an adhesive that is less affected by lacquer thinner than other tapes, so they stay stuck better, and resist lacquer seeping under the tape better.

I tape the fingerboard right at the corner. Are you taping at the bottom edge of the board and not spraying the side of the board? That's not the "usual" way to do it. There is usually finish on the edge of the board or the binding on the edge of the board. Or am I misunderstanding?

[Dale Ludewig]

I do it in two steps. When staining/ dyeing, I mask all the binding I possible can, including (especially) the binding on the side of the fingerboard, assuming it's bound. That's because it's so visible and when you try to clean it up after dyeing, you've got the frets in the way of using your fingers as an edge guide- hard to get a straight line that way!

Then after all the rest of the binding is clean, I spray the finish. And, as John said, that includes the binding on the side of the fingerboard. The chipping area I was referring to, and I'm sure he was also, was the edge of the binding where it meets the top of the fingerboard. Finish will always find a way under the masking tape at that corner. And it's prone to chipping at that corner. Actually it needs to be filed or sanded very gently anyway or else it's kind of sharp on the fingers.

[sunburst]

Dale, I have a veneer shaped like a fingerboard. I tape it over the frets, and scrape the binding with the "speed bumps" covered up.

[austin]

Well, that's where I got it wrong. I taped at the bottom of the binding, not really thinking about it, because my first few instruments were varnish except for a couple of water base varnished ones and I just french polished the binding edge when I was done. With these two I didn't really think about it and it looks fine, so I didn't worry about it until I noticed the bit of peel away. I guess the next ones I will tape it at the fingerboard edge instead. Thank you guys for your advice, as you mentioned in another post,John, this website is a great apprenticeship. Being self taught is fraught with learning curve opportunities.:p

[Dale Ludewig]

Hey John, I'd like to see that. Sounds like a time and mistake saver. I never stop learning. I hope. http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif