fingerboard

[T.T. Brown]

I've been playing a radiused fingerboard A-style for the last year, but recently picked up a flat fingerboard F-style that I love the sound of. However, I am having trouble adjusting to the flat fingerboard. Is it possible to have a radiused fingerboard built and added to the neck of my F?

[John Flynn]

You can, but it should be easier and cheaper to have the current board radiused in place. It has to be done in conjunction with a full refret and should run $200 - $400, depending on the mando.

[John Flynn]

I should also add that you will get used to the flat board if you play it enough. I started out on flat boards, but then discovered radiused boards and wouldn't play anything else for quite a while. Now, however, I have come back to center. I like them both. If I buy a new mando, I want a "slight radius." But I wouldn't pass on a mando I liked just because it has a flat board and I wouldn't spend the money to have one radiused. Just MHO.

[T.T. Brown]

Thanks for the advice. I'm sure it will come back to me with practice.

[ericwall]

I have to add to this. I have 2 F mandos (same maker, Fletcher Brock)with radiussed fretboards and banjo-type frets(?- eg.larger size frets) that are very easy to play. I have a wonderful-sounding A (Wayne Henderson)that has a flat fretboard with small frets that unfortunately is a bear to play. Even after the first few days of switching from radius to flat, my fingers (not finger tips)are sore from work. Granted they may have different action but I don't think that I'm getting used to the difference. And I don't want to part with the A model as it was made for me. I'm willing to invest in re-fitting the mando. And I live in Portland, OR. So what do I do?
Suggestions very much appreciated.
Eric http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/rock.gif

[Michael Lewis]

Eric, you might have your A model set up properly and then decide. The difference in playability can be dramatic.

If that doesn't work have the maker re fit it or call Fletcher. I think you will find that a good set up will take care of your problem.

[fatt-dad]

Could you send it back to Wayne Henderson for a radius and a refret?

f-d

[Gail Hester]

Timothy, here's a picture of an originally flat fretboard that has been radiused in place. There are some cosmetic effects, notice the side markers are no longer centered. As others have stated it requires removing the frets. I like Michael Lewis's idea to start with. Good luck.

[Jim Rowland]

Gail,in your photo,it appears that the bridge has not been radiused to match the fretboard. Is that just an optical illusion,or is it not necessary?
Jim

[Gail Hester]

Jim, I did radius the bridge but not much, I think it's about 16". #The picture does seem to exaggerate things.

BTW, I did not radius this fret board. My husband bought the mandolin this way and really liked the way it played so I made a new bridge top. I would have just replaced the board with a new one but that's way more expensive if you have to pay to get the work done.

[ericwall]

Thanks Michael. I will try getting it set up again and see if that does the trick (least costly option). And getting Wayne to do this work (fatt-dad) is next to impossible as he is so backlogged.
Thanks again,
Eric

[ericwall]

Thanks to Michael. I took my instrument to John Sullivan here in Portland (who, makes great great instruments of his own).; And true to form, JOhn said that it sorely needed a setup and a bridge re-fit (I couldn't lower the bridge any more). No new frets or radiussing- at least for now. Thanks for the great advice Michael!
Eric http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/mandosmiley.gif

[Yonkle]

I am about to build #5 F5. I am going to do a radius board on this one. Question: When you seat the frets in on a radius, wil they just naturally bend into the radius of the board,using a fret hammer or press?? Or do you have to pre-bend them?
Also: I assume you have to make the nut slots depths follow the radius,(just each string to the right height, so this is no different techinque than a flatboard in height set up) in the nut. How about the bridge?? Is there a curve there or do you keep it flat?http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/rock.gif JD

[musicofanatic]

Yonkle-In my experience, you'll want to pre-radius the fretwire. I like it arched to a slightly smaller radius, especially if one is pounding (er, tapping) frets in with a hammer. I try to seat the ends first, working into the center of the fret.
The string height in the nut slot is determined by the clearance off of the first fret, so it's the same principle, flat or curved.
Generally, yes, one would radius the bridge saddle top to match the f.b. I do the bridge with a slightly larger radius than the f.b. (ex: 16" f.b radius, 20" bridge radius).

[Antlurz]

Gail,in your photo,it appears that the bridge has not been radiused to match the fretboard. Is that just an optical illusion,or is it not necessary?
Jim
Jim....

Visualize the bottom curvature of the strings, considering the different diameters instead of the top of them. The radius will likely then become more apparent.

After building a couple of radiused board instruments with fat frets, I'd never go back.....

Ron