1st fret on E-string

[bjc]

Just curious is it just me or what? Almost every new mando I buy and MAS has hit me hard needs to be adjusted because the first fret on the e string has too high of action. Now, I know the value of a set up and that inexpensive mandos require this most of the time right out of the box. But it seems like this happens a lot to me.

[357mag]

Brian, i have shared the same experience as you. I have only owned 4 mandos in my life, three of them i have now. The first one is a cheapie but playable and not really worth the cost of a set up. Thee second is a MK. Bought it last year. Had it set up. Really nice now. The most reecent is a MK. Playable but it will need a set up to lower the strings at the first fret. When I had the first MK done, all that was evident was the luthier cut the string notched in the nut deeper. I thought about doing the latest one myself,but Im afraid I would cut to deep and really screw things up. I guess it really is worth the 50-60 bucks to have it done. It gives you peace of mind and an instrument that is a pleasure to play.

[bjc]

Funny my MK Legacy O was one of the one's that did not need a set up for the first fret issue. My new (cheaper---beater) MK needs it bad. But my Gold Tone, Mandobird and Trinity College (mandola) needed that first fret adjustment. Maybe it's just found often on what folks call the cheap mandos?

[357mag]

Well thats good to hear about the Legacy O. Thats the next one on my wish list. I guess these problems are not specific to MKs. Although I guess it happens more often in the lower end mandos.

[arbarnhart]

Very unscientific personal observation...

I think the E string is harder to push down because it is small (less surface area and dents your fingertip and then recesses into the dent) and fairly rigid (when in tune, they are not far from breaking). This combination makes them difficult to fret so I think you find lower action desirable. Fortunately, it also seems that the amount of travel the string has while vibrating is less than other strings, so you can get away with pretty low action. The further you are from the nut, the less noticable it would be due to "leverage", so the action at the 12th fret can be about the same as other strings. Again, this is just the observations of a simpleton novice. I have only played about a half a dozen.

[bjc]

arbarnhart...I believe that your assumption is correct. Have you had that problem with your mandos?

[Dale Ludewig]

IMHO, adjusting the action at the nut is one of the most quickly "screwed up" processes when setting up a mando. Probably any other instrument. To get the best action, you're pushing it right to the edge, where one or two more passes with a fret file will require repair or a new nut. Less than that pushing it leaves an instrument that could play easier on the lower frets. Plus you have to take into account that the player may change string gauges, and that will make a difference, especially at such small tolerances.

I believe a really well set up mando will fret equally easily across all the strings. Anywhere on the neck. Action at the nut vs. higher up the neck is a much more complicated affair. Once you get past the nut (the easiest one to avoid) the rest of the neck is a combination of neck relief, fret dressing, bridge height, curvature (if the fingerboard is radiused), and all such.

[357mag]

Dale,thanks for that input. That just confirmef my suspicion that I should not try to become an amateur luthier. http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/wink.gif

[arbarnhart]

My comment may have been misunderstood. I have found that I can adjust the E slightly lower than other strings at the bridge without it buzzing and this helps some with easing play at fret 1. I made a maple bridge, so I can adjust strings individually and if I screw it up I can just make another or put the factory one back on.

I also have been practicing Beethoven's 9th out of the Mandolin Anthology book from Mel Bay to get used to playing E at fret 1.