set-up question

[JC JACK]

What exactly is involved in a "professional" set-up? #The term is used alot but not a real description of what all is involved other than (assuming) #the expertise of the professional. #How does a professional set-up relate to raising or lowering the action on the mandolin? # Thanks in advance for your comments.

[nilodnam]

There are far better than me to answer this, but off the top of my head the following would apply

- adjust the truss rod if needed
- check the nut for string height at the nut, slot width (too narrow binds strings, too wide is sloppy)
- check bridge. Again, slots, string spacing as in nut, and making sure it comforms to the mando top.
- intonation. Bridge again, but this time the position relative to the frets so fret 12 is a mid point.
- inspect for cracks, seam loosening, fret condition and suggest any required fixes.

Hope that helps. Each of these can have a huge impact on it's own. In combination - well you could be amazed.

[JEStanek]

I'm hoping not to totally sidetrack this topic but I think this fits in...

If I change my strings and take off all of them and remove the bridge for that anual fret board lube, when I replace the bridge (assuming I wasn't smart enough to mark its position) where do I put it back. Lets assume I know enough not to fiddle with the height and know which side is treble and bass.

Do I put the bridge back so the saddle notches are an equal distance from the 12th fret as from 12 to fret board side of the nut?

I've read that if I am in tune open and sharp at the 12th the bridge goes away from the nut and if I am flat at 12th the bridge goes towards the nut. Do I have to release all of the tension move the bridge retighten and try again? Isn't that bad for the strings?

I always had my mandos adjusted initially but since they don't have a Lutier Insurance program I've been slack about taking mine back for a periodic re-set up. Whats a reasonable frequency (annually, semi anual, or after x string changes). I live in PA so the air goes from dry dry dry to wet wet wet during the year.

I'm reasonably sure I'm not the only newbie who has ventured blindly into string changes but I would love to know how to competently adjust my mando's intonation. This is a great thread.

Thanks in aadvance.

Jamie

[Lee]

Restring themando loosely so you can still move the bridge. Play the 12th fret fretted, and then play the harmonic by lightly touching the string at the 12th fret. The two tones should be the same. Do this on the G and E strings. Move the bridge fore or aft until the tones are the same.

[Stephen Perry]

If I recall my checklist:

Check construction & finish
Tighten screws
Lubricate tuners
Check endpin
Check bridge fit
Adjust nut
Adjust bridge top for straightness
Adjust bridge height for action
Tune up & check/adjust truss rod
Check / adjust frets
Check / adjust intonation
Play & make fine adjustments
Prestress & retune
Tune ribs
Tune bridge
Tune bars

That about does it here.

[8ch(pl)]

Before I removed the bridge on my instrument, I used a fine sharpie marker to put a mark on the top at the center of the bridge. It is very small, a dot. it sure helps me relocate the bridge.

[sunburst]

Jamie,
Here's how I position a bridge, starting with several assumptions.
Assuming the bridge saddle slots are cut correctly for height and intonation and the bridge and frets are in good shape, and assuming the nut is cut correctly.

I don't use an electronic tuner to check intonation, but instead:

Place the bridge between the points of the F-holes, or if you have an oval hole, put it on the "scar" on the top.

Put on the E strings and the G strings only, and tune to pitch, or nearly to pitch, so that the unisons are perfect - no "beats".

Fret one of the E strings at the 12th fret and position the bridge so that the octave is perfect - no "beats".

Do the same for the G strings, re-check and re-adjust both the E and G until the unisons and octaves are perfect on both.

Put the rest of the strings on, making sure not to move the bridge in the process, and they will all be intonated correctly.

[JEStanek]

Thanks John. That's gonna get prineted and put in my mando medic book!

Jamie

[otterly2k]

Steve-
Thanks for that checklist...I understand all of it except "tune ribs, tune bridge, tune bars"

Can you explain these?

[Stephen Perry]

Yeah, I tried to start a discussion on those topics once. #Nobody appeared interested. #Just some of that silly violinmaker tweeking. I cover it a little here: http://www.giannaviolins.com/eastmanmandolins/setup.html But I do other things, too.

[Lee]

Steve, I musta mised it. I am interested. Where can I go to read up on it more? Thanks!

[otterly2k]

Thanks Steve... I'm fascinated by this. Most of the rest of the setup process are things I know how to do, and can do or have done myself. But the careful shaving of bits off wood off braces and bridge...I wouldn't know where to begin! I guess that's something that comes with years of experience...

I'm surprised nobody has been interested in this...did you post to the builder/repair board? I would think some of those folks would be interested. But then you might be pressured to give up some of your secrets! http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/wink.gif