Binding 'Goop'

[Kent Barnes]

I used Duco cement to glue the bindings on Harlan #1 and #2. On #3 I tried the melted binding/acetone mixture as a glue. Wow! That works great! It has a longer working time, but seems to dry faster. Plus it fills in all the gaps around the binding. I don't think I'm ever going back to Duco!

[amowry]

Yes, that's all I use now on the body (mandolin body, that is), and I think it's great. Cheap too--I just keep replenishing my jar with scraps. I know everyone has there favorites, but I haven't found any real disadvantages of this stuff yet.

[El Rey del Mando]

Kent or Andrew,How fast does that stuff dry?Do you still have to tape or rubberband the binding on?I used that arrangement years ago when I built radio controlled airplanes and it dried right away.I just finished my first mandolin and I used thick super glue.It worked well but I had some small gaps that I filled with sawdust and glue.I am starting number two and that method sounds great.I wish I could figure out how to post pictures here.I would like everyone to see how it came out.I made it look 80 years old.I emailed some pics to some people but they won't come up on the cafe.

John

[dstretch]

I am using DUCO on #1 and I think I might experiment this way on #2. As far as the pics go, you need to save them as .JPG and reduce the size so it is less than 102400 bytes. It is pretty easy if you pm me I will explain in more detail. Here is a pic of my back scroll binding

[ShaneJ]

I assume that you need to melt binding that is the same color as the binding you're putting on. Is that right?

[Kent Barnes]

Yes, you need the same color binding. I have leftover pieces from laminating binding to do the side binding. I cut it into small pieces and put them in an old babyfood jar with some acetone. It takes a little while for it all to melt, but it works great.

[amowry]

John-

It dries to the touch in a matter of seconds, but I tape the binding in place for an hour or so and it is important to let it cure for at least a few days before scraping it down, because the binding will first expand a bit and then will shrink for a while. This could potentially be a disadvantage in a production setting (but Duco does the same thing).

[sunburst]

In a production setting, you bind so many at a time, and they cure for "as long as it takes" while you bind some more. Not much fun, really.

In production, it's more important that the bindings don't need much extra work after the initial gluing than for the glue to dry fast. The parts aren't costing much money sitting there curing, but if a person (read wages, if you're management) has to spend extra time, it gets expensive.
Sometimes production isn't about getting things through the shop fast, but more about getting things through the shop with minimal employee hours, so if a slower glue does a neater job, it's likely to be used.

[Kent Barnes]

While this may be a little off my original topic....
does having the binding on a new mando turn out really well (ie - no major gaps) make you consider making it a blonde? Harlan #3 looks really good, so the thought has crossed my mind......

[Bob Kellett]

Is there a similar method you could use for wood bindings? Just curious.

[El Rey del Mando]

Andrew,Thanks for the info.I am going to start some binding melting.I saw your mandolins,they look great.

John

[Michael Lewis]

The best job will be the neatest job, and that will usually be the best prepared job. If you take the time to make the binding ledges perfect, pre bend the bindings, and install them quickly while the glue is still liquid, and get the bindings taped or wrapped in place to dry, you will likely have very little extra work to do when everything is dry. This goes for wood bindings too.

[Ragamuffin]

Is there a ratio of binding material to acetone, or a desired thickness that works best?

Regards,

Ragman

[Desert Rose]

Thickness consistancy, go by your needs, and you will find that if you keep a jar around you will always be adding more binding or acetone as needed

Scott

[amowry]

I try to have it be about the consistency of white glue (e.g. Elmers glue). The trick is to not have it so thick that it will harden before you get the binding in place, and not so thin that it will soften the binding too much and make a mess. It's pretty forgiving, really.

[Ragamuffin]

Sounds good. I'll give it a try.

Thanks,

Rags